Home - Destinations - iPhone/Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Solar Collector/Gold Coast
Select Route:
Black Gold 
Blue Eyed Honkey Jesus 
Brambly Downslide 
Broken Chicken Wing  
Buddha Hole 
Chester Fried Chicken 
Chicken Boy 
Decline of Western Civilization 
Erik's First 5.6 
Ethics Police 
Forgive Me Amy, For I Have Sent 
God's Own Stone 
Golden Boy 
Green Horn 
Herd Mentality 
Highway Turtle 
Lucky Duck Soup 
Mona Lisa Overdrive  
No Fluff 
Norway On My Mind 
On the Prowl 
Perfect Pint, The 
Rebar 
Slow Jack 
Smoothie Nut 
Space Junk 
Sunny the Boxer 
Supafly 
Super Pinch 
True Love 
Zone of Silence 

Ethics Police 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 75'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Rob McFall
Page Views: 835
Submitted By: Monomaniac on Oct 11, 2010
Good Page? 0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Ethics Police

Description 

This line features one of the enormous body-swallowing huecos that this cliff is famous for. The crux comes with balancy moves exiting this hueco, and apparently a key crimp broke several years ago making this crux a bit more difficult than it used to be, and causing some to suggest that the route is now 12a. Despite local opinion, the un-sustained nature of the difficulties may make this line seem easier than Buddha Hole if you aren't used to endless jug-hauling.

Begin right of a generally chalk-less gray streak (with the rarely-climbed 12c "Psycopathy"). Small but positive pockets lead up to the big purple sloper rail. Easy liebacks lead up into the hueco. Exit the right side of the hueco with difficulty, then make pumpy reaches between slopey holes. Eventually the wall becomes more featured as you race the pump to the anchor.


Location 

Next line right of the bolted dark-gray streak. Also the sixth bolted route from the left side of the cliff.


Protection 

~7 bolts, 2BA. Stick clip recommended.



Comments on Ethics Police Add Comment
Show which comments
- none yet -