Ethics Police  5.11d

593 page views Good page?

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 75 feet Consensus:  5.12a [details] FA:  Rob McFall Submitted By:  Monomaniac on Oct 11, 2010 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Ethics Police

Add Photo  Add Comment    Printer View

Description 

This line features one of the enormous body-swallowing huecos that this cliff is famous for. The crux comes with balancy moves exiting this hueco, and apparently a key crimp broke several years ago making this crux a bit more difficult than it used to be, and causing some to suggest that the route is now 12a. Despite local opinion, the un-sustained nature of the difficulties may make this line seem easier than Buddha Hole if you aren't used to endless jug-hauling.

Begin right of a generally chalk-less gray streak (with the rarely-climbed 12c "Psycopathy"). Small but positive pockets lead up to the big purple sloper rail. Easy liebacks lead up into the hueco. Exit the right side of the hueco with difficulty, then make pumpy reaches between slopey holes. Eventually the wall becomes more featured as you race the pump to the anchor.

Location 

Next line right of the bolted dark-gray streak. Also the sixth bolted route from the left side of the cliff.

Protection 

~7 bolts, 2BA. Stick clip recommended.