Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Solar Collector/Gold Coast
Select Route:
Black Gold S 
Blue Eyed Honkey Jesus S 
Brambly Downslide S 
Broken Chicken Wing  T 
Buddha Hole S 
Chester Fried Chicken T 
Chicken Boy S 
Decline of Western Civilization S 
Erik's First 5.6 T 
Ethics Police S 
Forgive Me Amy, For I Have Sent TR 
God's Own Stone S 
Golden Boy S 
Green Horn S 
Herd Mentality S 
Highway Turtle S 
Lucky Duck Soup S 
Mona Lisa Overdrive  S 
No Fluff S 
Norway On My Mind S 
On the Prowl S 
Perfect Pint, The T 
Rebar T 
Slow Jack T 
Smoothie Nut T 
Space Junk S 
Sunny the Boxer S 
Supafly S 
Super Pinch S 
True Love S 
Zone of Silence S 

Ethics Police 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 75'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Rob McFall
Page Views: 935
Submitted By: Monomaniac on Oct 11, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (10)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Ethics Police

Description 

This line features one of the enormous body-swallowing huecos that this cliff is famous for. The crux comes with balancy moves exiting this hueco, and apparently a key crimp broke several years ago making this crux a bit more difficult than it used to be, and causing some to suggest that the route is now 12a. Despite local opinion, the un-sustained nature of the difficulties may make this line seem easier than Buddha Hole if you aren't used to endless jug-hauling.

Begin right of a generally chalk-less gray streak (with the rarely-climbed 12c "Psycopathy"). Small but positive pockets lead up to the big purple sloper rail. Easy liebacks lead up into the hueco. Exit the right side of the hueco with difficulty, then make pumpy reaches between slopey holes. Eventually the wall becomes more featured as you race the pump to the anchor.

Location 

Next line right of the bolted dark-gray streak. Also the sixth bolted route from the left side of the cliff.

Protection 

~7 bolts, 2BA. Stick clip recommended.


Comments on Ethics Police Add Comment
Show which comments
- none yet -