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Solar Collector/Gold Coast
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Ethics Police 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E5 6a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 75'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Rob McFall
Page Views: 835
Submitted By: Monomaniac on Oct 11, 2010
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Ethics Police


This line features one of the enormous body-swallowing huecos that this cliff is famous for. The crux comes with balancy moves exiting this hueco, and apparently a key crimp broke several years ago making this crux a bit more difficult than it used to be, and causing some to suggest that the route is now 12a. Despite local opinion, the un-sustained nature of the difficulties may make this line seem easier than Buddha Hole if you aren't used to endless jug-hauling.

Begin right of a generally chalk-less gray streak (with the rarely-climbed 12c "Psycopathy"). Small but positive pockets lead up to the big purple sloper rail. Easy liebacks lead up into the hueco. Exit the right side of the hueco with difficulty, then make pumpy reaches between slopey holes. Eventually the wall becomes more featured as you race the pump to the anchor.


Next line right of the bolted dark-gray streak. Also the sixth bolted route from the left side of the cliff.


~7 bolts, 2BA. Stick clip recommended.

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