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Solstice Cave
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Essence of Darkness S 
Eternal Sunshine S 
Fireball S 
Flamer S 
Hail Mary S 
Hot Tamale S 
Infernal Justice S 
It Put's the Buff On S 
Scorcher S 
Solstice S 
Straight Into Frantic Oblivion S 
Total Eclipse S 

Eternal Sunshine 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Kevin Wilkinson
Page Views: 887
Submitted By: DisturbingThePeace on Feb 22, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11)
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Amy Jordan cruising to the big rest jug Eternal Su...

Climbing is currently allowed in Last Chance Canyon. Continued access is everyones responsibility. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This fun jug haul makes a good warmup for the harder lines in the cave, or a good project on it's own. Easy moves on good holds lead up through the first two bolts, where a tricky move is encountered. Manage this and it's all about hanging on too the anchors, there are only a few non jug holds on your way. Despite most of the holds being good the grade probably comes from fighting the pump and hanging on.

Location 

At the right side of the cave. The last route before the cave ends. "Solstice" is the the left and "Scorcher" is to the right.

Protection 

1 quickdraw, all other draws and chains are fixed.


Photos of Eternal Sunshine Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Gabriela starts the crux Eternal Sunshine (5.12-)
Gabriela starts the crux Eternal Sunshine (5.12-)
Rock Climbing Photo: Enjoying some early morning sun on Eternal Sunshin...
Enjoying some early morning sun on Eternal Sunshin...

Comments on Eternal Sunshine Add Comment
Show which comments
By Craig Childre
From: Lubbock, Texas
Mar 7, 2011

When Kevin put this route up he just bolted through the last link on a 3/4-link length of chain. Making his "CHAIN HANGERS"!!! I thought, ghetto... but by the next weekend he had finished cleaning the loose rock and set the hangers. Watching him set bolts for a possible variation to the start for 'Frantic' it sort of makes sense. Hanging off the last bolt, or even a cam , he would drill as far ahead as possible. Sometimes making a bolt ladder. So after the whole line is up, the setter can come back, make corrections, if you will, and set the hangers so they are in the best position to clip and spaced properly.
By Rstrang
From: Santa Fe, NM
Nov 28, 2012
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

This one's a 4 star route that gets downgraded because of several EVEN BETTER!! 5.12's (ie. Swept Away). Really fun must do pitch
By Jason Halladay
Administrator
From: Los Alamos, NM
Dec 8, 2014
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

The glue-reinforced/glued-on right-hand sidepull between the first and second fixed chain draws has broken off and sits near the base of the route. Thankfully there's a good crimp in the vicinity and the difficulty hasn't changed much.
By Rstrang
From: Santa Fe, NM
Dec 8, 2014
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Glad that it's not too much harder (is it reachy?). Andre and Matt told me about that hold breaking. Good to see that some more NM glue has gone away!!
By Jason Halladay
Administrator
From: Los Alamos, NM
Dec 9, 2014
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

The crimp is a full pad and really positive. The new move from the crimp is a tad more reachy because it's a downward pull instead of a side pull that allowed shorter climbers to get their hip into the wall to drive for the clipping jug by the second chain. Still a great route.
By Jerry432
From: odessa texas
Apr 19, 2015

Thanks for posting the hold blew. I was about to post until I read yours! I like ES even more now that the hold broke. I agree for shorter climbers the difficulty may be the reach.

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