Eternal Sunshine 5.12a
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Amy Jordan cruising to the big rest jug
Eternal Su...
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Climbing is currently allowed in Last Chance Canyon. Continued access is everyones responsibility. MORE INFO >>>
The Lincoln National Forest Service continues its ban on bolting new routes (or, by permission only). However, climbing is currently allowed in all areas of Last Chance Canyon.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description This fun jug haul makes a good warmup for the harder lines in the cave, or a good project on it's own. Easy moves on good holds lead up through the first two bolts, where a tricky move is encountered. Manage this and it's all about hanging on too the anchors, there are only a few non jug holds on your way. Despite most of the holds being good the grade probably comes from fighting the pump and hanging on.
Location At the right side of the cave. The last route before the cave ends. "Solstice" is the the left and "Scorcher" is to the right.
Protection 1 quickdraw, all other draws and chains are fixed.
Gabriela starts the crux
Eternal Sunshine (5.12-)
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Enjoying some early morning sun on Eternal Sunshin...
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| Comments on Eternal Sunshine |
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By Craig Childre
From: Lubbock, Texas
Mar 7, 2011
| When Kevin put this route up he just bolted through the last link on a 3/4-link length of chain. Making his "CHAIN HANGERS"!!! I thought, ghetto... but by the next weekend he had finished cleaning the loose rock and set the hangers. Watching him set bolts for a possible variation to the start for 'Frantic' it sort of makes sense. Hanging off the last bolt, or even a cam , he would drill as far ahead as possible. Sometimes making a bolt ladder. So after the whole line is up, the setter can come back, make corrections, if you will, and set the hangers so they are in the best position to clip and spaced properly. |
By Rstrang
From: Santa Fe, NM
Nov 28, 2012
rating: 5.12a
| This one's a 4 star route that gets downgraded because of several EVEN BETTER!! 5.12's (ie. Swept Away). Really fun must do pitch |
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