If you're in search of something steep at the grade, this is a great choice, offering a near-horizontal roof which is surpassed on mostly enormous jugs. Unfortunately things deteriorate pretty quick, culminating in a monotonous lieback up a sharp, albeit steep & juggy crack. The reward for this effort is a steep slab of thin crimps & pockets, on somewhat sub-par gray stone.
Stick clip the first bolt, grab the jug, and make a strenuous move up to a good sharp pocket. Work right to the crack, & lieback this (with the help of the odd pocket) until the angle eases and its possible to move right onto the slab. Work easily back left to the anchor.
Just left of where the trail meets the cliff is a big roof. This climbs the left side of the roof up a juggy crack. This shares the first bolt with "Ni Poc" before heading up the right crack.
~8 bolts to 2BA. Stick clip recommended. If you're tall you can clip the first from the ground.
|By Jeremy Steck|
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Nov 7, 2013
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a
Although it climbs like a trad route, and might go on gear, it's bolted. The moves into and through the overhanging crack system are fun!