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Espresso 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Art Mooney
Page Views: 3,573
Submitted By: Chris Duca on Dec 16, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (68)
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Right before the business.

Note: New route moratorium area MORE INFO >>>

Description 

The first (and steepest) climb you encounter at the height of the climbers trail. In just 60 feet of climbing, Espresso has easy slab climbing, a series of tricky moves to surmount a bulge, and a fun line of juggy moves right before you encounter a brief, but crimpy crux.

The bolts are well-placed, the climbing is fun, and the falls are clean and safe.

Protection 

6 bolts and two cold-shuts for anchors


Photos of Espresso Slideshow Add Photo
Chris Duca about midway up the route.   <br /> <br />Photo taken by Liam Griffin.
Chris Duca about midway up the route.

Photo tak...
Nuria on the belay and Muel past the crux.
Nuria on the belay and Muel past the crux.
Me climbing this one again.
Me climbing this one again.

Comments on Espresso Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Feb 26, 2014
By twellman
Jul 13, 2009

I think you can skip the crimpy crux, which is below the 2nd to last bolt, with a fun dyno. The hold to the left of the 2nd to last bolt is good, and it's a fun fall if it turns out not to be good enough when you are pumping out!
By tscupp
From: Cincinnati, OH
Aug 9, 2010
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

This is sort of a nit-picky question but I'm curious as to what is considered the true line at the start? I did one way pretty close to the bolt line (maybe a little left) and found it very hard - much harder than anything else on the climb and a second way that was right of the bolt line and used a little bit of the rock to the side making it much easier but more consistent with the rest of the climb.

Any thoughts?

This is a great 10+, so much fun blasting through those monster jugs from the midway point and above.
By hasan
From: portland,me
Sep 18, 2011

Got on it today and sent, great route. I feel if you veer right onto the block and then traverse left into the route around 2nd bolt then it is no where near 10d, more like 10a or 9+, and if its thats 10d then romancing the stone (10c) etc would be 11. The true line would be straight up from the first bolt up with some hard moves into steep juggy climbing to anchors.
By Matt Wilson
From: Bethel, Vermont, USA
Feb 8, 2012

Silly question, but does this route start at the very bottom of the rock, or are you supposed to hike up to the right and start on the ledge?
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Feb 8, 2012

I usually start from below since my belayer and pack is down there and I prefer climbing over hiking.
By S. Neoh
Feb 8, 2012

I do not think the ledge was any part of the original start. The 1st time I led the route, I think I stuck a #4 cam into some big horizotnal down low. Was a low bolt added afterwards?
Juan Valdez and 100% Colombian start from the ledge. Does starting Expresso from the ledge involve a long traverse into the route from the right?
By Matt Wilson
From: Bethel, Vermont, USA
Feb 16, 2012

Thanks guys. Also, is it possible to access the anchors for this climb by climbing week with pete?
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Feb 16, 2012

it could be a bit sketchy... it would be safer to have a solid belayer and lead the route it self... grab draws if need be but mostly its big holds...
By Matt Wilson
From: Bethel, Vermont, USA
Feb 16, 2012

Thanks!
By Matt Wilson
From: Bethel, Vermont, USA
Mar 31, 2012

Finally got on this today. Hang dogged it at nearly every bolt. I used the ledge to clip the second bolt, then climbed back down to the slab, and climbed to the left of the bolts from there. Really pumpy for me, but every time I decided I needed to throw for what looked like a good hold, it was indeed good.
By MikeJ
May 22, 2012

Don't understand some of the comments... the first moves of the route were not at all hard for me and I don't see how traversing into the route would affect the grade. The crux is absolutely the move off the crimp before the second to last (?) bolt. Found a technical solution with a heel hook. Grade? Who cares!! 5.FUN!!!
By Brendan Blanchard
From: Strafford, NH
Jul 9, 2012
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

The start also feels stout for me, I climb the ramp, clip the first bolt, then move down/left and start the real climbing. I use one of the pockets as a flat edged sidepull, throw into the crack, then pop to a jug up and right, clip the second bolt, then finish straight up the line. If I skipped that section or found an easier way, the route would not feel 10d to me.

Quick clips are getting pretty worn as of 7/8/12.
By Nick Grant
From: Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
Feb 26, 2014
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Espresso is a great route bold line, terrific situations but I also find it one of the pumpiest 5.10's at Rumney. Getting past the first two bolts and over the first overhang is perhaps the hardest part of the climb for me. I find it awkward and exhausting. The big jug moves up above are easier, but by the time I get to them my finger strength is shot.