Espresso 

I think you can skip the crimpy crux, which is below the 2nd to last bolt, with a fun dyno. The hold to the left of the 2nd to last bolt is good, and it's a fun fall if it turns out not to be good enough when you are pumping out!

This is sort of a nit-picky question but I'm curious as to what is considered the true line at the start? I did one way pretty close to the bolt line (maybe a little left) and found it very hard - much harder than anything else on the climb and a second way that was right of the bolt line and used a little bit of the rock to the side making it much easier but more consistent with the rest of the climb.

Any thoughts?

This is a great 10+, so much fun blasting through those monster jugs from the midway point and above.

Got on it today and sent, great route. I feel if you veer right onto the block and then traverse left into the route around 2nd bolt then it is no where near 10d, more like 10a or 9+, and if its thats 10d then romancing the stone (10c) etc would be 11. The true line would be straight up from the first bolt up with some hard moves into steep juggy climbing to anchors.

Silly question, but does this route start at the very bottom of the rock, or are you supposed to hike up to the right and start on the ledge?

I usually start from below since my belayer and pack is down there and I prefer climbing over hiking.

I do not think the ledge was any part of the original start. The 1st time I led the route, I think I stuck a #4 cam into some big horizotnal down low. Was a low bolt added afterwards?
Juan Valdez and 100% Colombian start from the ledge. Does starting Expresso from the ledge involve a long traverse into the route from the right?

Thanks guys. Also, is it possible to access the anchors for this climb by climbing week with pete?

it could be a bit sketchy... it would be safer to have a solid belayer and lead the route it self... grab draws if need be but mostly its big holds...

Thanks!

Finally got on this today. Hang dogged it at nearly every bolt. I used the ledge to clip the second bolt, then climbed back down to the slab, and climbed to the left of the bolts from there. Really pumpy for me, but every time I decided I needed to throw for what looked like a good hold, it was indeed good.

Don't understand some of the comments... the first moves of the route were not at all hard for me and I don't see how traversing into the route would affect the grade. The crux is absolutely the move off the crimp before the second to last (?) bolt. Found a technical solution with a heel hook. Grade? Who cares!! 5.FUN!!!

The start also feels stout for me, I climb the ramp, clip the first bolt, then move down/left and start the real climbing. I use one of the pockets as a flat edged sidepull, throw into the crack, then pop to a jug up and right, clip the second bolt, then finish straight up the line. If I skipped that section or found an easier way, the route would not feel 10d to me.

Quick clips are getting pretty worn as of 7/8/12.