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 ADVANCED
Raven Rocks North Face "Power Block" Area
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Babes-A-Boodle aka RepoMan S 
Blast From The Past S 
Decaf S 
Disconnected S 
Espresso S 
Holey Moley S 
Raven, The S 
Red Devil S 
Should be Called Do What? S 
Tough Choices S 
Voodoo Child S 
Voodoo Lounge S 
Will Power S 
You Don't Know Jack S 

Espresso 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 35'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Jack Marshall, Dave Sprenger
Page Views: 2,940
Submitted By: susan peplow on Dec 16, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (72)
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first bolt on Espresso

Description 

Short well protected and fun. Crux is between 1st & 2nd bolt.


Location 

Just right of large roof - big square flake at second bolt. Rap down.

Southern CA sport climbing guide - route # 865

Protection 

4 bolts to closed-shut anchors.



Photos of Espresso Slideshow Add Photo
Hook
Hook
"Expresso". <br />Photo by Blitzo.
"Expresso". Photo by Blitzo.
Jay clipping on Expresso.
Jay clipping on Expresso.
Russ making it happen on Espresso.
Russ making it happen on Espresso.
Susan on "Expresso". <br />Photo by Blitzo.
Susan on "Expresso". Photo by Blitzo.
Expresso area. <br />Photo by Blitzo.
Expresso area. Photo by Blitzo.
Me freezing my hands on.  <br /> <br />Note to self and other climbers: During winter and early spring wait to climb this wall after sun has touched it or fingers will be frozen stiff.
Me freezing my hands on. Note to self and other ...
Climbers getting one last burn on Espresso (5.10c), NJC
Climbers getting one last burn on Espresso (5.10c)...

Comments on Espresso Add Comment
Show which comments
By C Miller
Administrator
Dec 18, 2006
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

A tricky section down low seems to be the crux but holding on for the duration is the real crux.
By Russ Walling
From: www.FishProducts.com
Dec 27, 2006
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Here is a short movie with Will S doing Espresso in Dec. of '06. QuickTime 7 required.
fishproducts.com/movies/NewJac...
By veritus
From: redlands, ca
Jan 2, 2007
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Stemming is OFF!!!!
By duh
Jan 3, 2007

Sam and I had only been bolting in the area for a few weeks when Mike, Mari and Bruckman came out. We only had a dozen or so routes, mostly 11's and 12's. They asked where the 5.9 warm up was, Expresso was the easiest route bolted at the time, so I pointed to it. A little while later, they came back and stated "That thing is not 5.9!" I kinda chuckled and said, "Well... 5.9+". Expresso remained the easiest route in the area and rated 5.9+ for several years.
By Adam Stackhouse
Administrator
Jan 3, 2007

Good video
By RNclimber
From: Riverside, Ca
Mar 6, 2010
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Fun climb. I specifically liked how the flake was bolted into the wall. Almost got an onsight, but underestimated how pumpy it was. I fell right before the anchor :(
By T.J. Esposito
From: San Diego, CA
Nov 21, 2011

Fun climb, nice hand jam rest after the crux. Oh yeah, and stemming is off (x2) despite what all the videos on YouTube show!
By Rob Selter
From: running springs Ca
Apr 1, 2013

Really cool layback move midway up. don't over grip everything and you can avoid the pump.
By Clif Clap
May 20, 2013

Pumpier than it looks. Awesome bouldery sequences but I didn't have it dialed through and volunteered a fall at the fourth bolt rather than blow the clip. Well-protected though and good feet.