Espresso Crack 

This is a great, short pitch of finger locks...Its way SHARP!! Tape your fingers because its sharpness may be the deciding factor to send or not. Probably not quite 5.12 as compared to other routes in the nearby areas (11c/d)...Not as hard as Heart Of Stone (another Clevenger route)...Better rack beta would be a 3.5 Friend in the starting flake. A good, sideways medium stopper once standing in the crack. Then, doubles of Yellow and Red Aliens to a 1.5 Friend and then another medium nut or two. Because of rope drag from the anchor its not a good TR. Walk off way to the back and around.

Awesome route! Must do! Probably about .11d. There will be extention webbing/quicklinks on top by mid June sometime to facillitate TR soloing, toproping, and lowering. [please do not steal the equipment!]

Great description! Brief and to the point! What more is needed?

Blitzo asks, "Brief and to the point! What more is needed?"

Man, that's RICH!

WOW! What a great looking climb!!!!!!!!

HOW DO I GET TO THE BASE? WHERE IS THIS AMAZING THING??

I want to do it too! Can I come, can I, can I?

We saw this crack from the road and hiked up and hopped on it without a guide book. My friend led it first and cruised it. I asked how hard it was and he said he wasn't sure, but thought about 5.10+, so I pulled the rope to lead it. At about the third hang I suspected I'd been sandbagged. I'd say this thing is somewhat harder than 10+ and somewhat easier than 12-. (btw he still maintains that it's 5.10+)

Oh yea, to find it scramble up some ledges to the left just after the approach trail passes an enormous boulder. It starts on a big ledge half-way up the cliff, a little left of an obvious wide-ish crack (Classic Crack).

new bolts with mussy hooks put in by me to better facilitate rope management. They are located after all of the notable climbing, but low enough so your rope does not drag like crazy over the slab. You can still reach them from the top, just wear your harness and be ready to clip in! All stainless steel too!

Holy granite splitter batman! I mean, really, this is one cool crack! And the gear is bombproof!

Gear spray following so don't read on if you want to onsight:

You could also use a #2 or #3 camalot to protect the initial flake along with a #1 on a runner if you really wanted to then a med/lg nut in the main crack before you start pulling down. The entire main crack goes on .5 camalot/red alien/grey alien. you can also toss in a yellow alien up high and a .75 at the end if you want.

I'd say 11c is about right. The splitter is kinda short and there are .75 sized foot pods but you are fully hanging on ring and finger locks. Soooooooo good! Anyone considering should jump on this thing.

A classic line.