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Java Wall
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Espresso 

YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Louie Anderson
Page Views: 2,059
Submitted By: David Wang on Jun 12, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (36)
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Grotto and Lookout closed MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Long and sustained line at the left end of the Java Wall. Easy start leads to a short traverse to the left (technical crux) about half way up. Thin edges and small pockets (endurance crux) leads to the anchors.

Protection 

12 bolts, 3 shut anchor


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By Jordan Ramey
From: Calgary, Alberta
Nov 26, 2007
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

The 2 shuts at the top of this route are fairly worn from people lowering and / or top roping off them.

Route info: 10-12 bolts. Fairly solid rock. The line starts at the extreme left of the java wall below the ramp. Two bolts lead up and onto the ramp. Follow the bolts up to the arete and crux bulge. The crux bolt's hanger is a bit loose (seemed fine though). Pull through this bulge clip a bolt then follow the bolts diagonally left. The route straight up is cappuccino (5.11c). The final part has good holds and feet, but is slightly overhanging causing it to be the enduro crux.
By Benjamin Chapman
From: Small Town, USA
Dec 12, 2009

The two anchor shuts are worn, but a new 3rd shut was added in April of 2009. There are currently 3 shuts at the anchor. The route consists of 12 bolts and a 3 shut anchor.