|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, 640', Grade III|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]|
|FA:||Greg Cameron and Clean Dan Grandusky|
|Submitted By:||Greg Cameron on Jul 26, 2003|
|Comments on Espresso||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By mike schlauch
Jul 24, 2008
P1 - 30 meters to a ledge on the right. 5.10.
P2 - 55 meters. Solid 5.11. Traversed left from belay on some xenolithes to a 5.9 crack and then back right into the arching crack. A bit of flakey / crumbly rock here. Bats too. After the crack, keep angling left to the base of the obvious left facing corner. Might get better after alot of ascents, but right now this pitch is kinda nasty.
P3 - 45 meters. Some spicey, crumbly 5.10 climbing off the belay into a pretty good, 5.10, left-facing corner passing lots of interesting shrubbery. Belay after a roof on right with a couple extra hand-size pieces &/or a slung chockstone.
P4 - 30 meters. Go up 9+ pink double hand cracks to another xenolith face climbing section (or possible wide crack section on right)Belay where you can find a dry spot.
P5 - 40 meters, 5.10b. Up and then traverse / stem left to obvious horizontal cracks (some fixed nuts up there) then continue left and out. Not as wet as predicted.
Overall, kind of an adventurous route. Maybe 1 star. Needs more traffic. Standard rack with doubles thru 4 Camalot. No fixed anchors.
By Rob Kepley
Aug 30, 2009
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
|Climbed this route Sat with Jay. I'd give it 2 stars overall, however, the crux pitch and the 10+ pitch above are outstanding. It still needs to clean up a bit though. The last few pitches are junk which were quite wet and mossy.|
By Jay 1975
Aug 31, 2009
|Tough route at high altitude! Has anyone climbed the cracks on the left face of the 3rd pitch? They would be aid. Overall, a very adventurous route! Stays dry through rain and snow! Some good ones and some frightening sections.|
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 15, 2011
|Got bouted on this route on 8/11. We left some stoppers and slung great horn near top P1 to escape. Did the walk of shame in climbing shoes climber's right of the wall to get back out. Definitely be prepared for some adventure on this route!|