Espresso 5.11a
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| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, 640 feet, Grade III |
| Consensus: | 5.11- [details] |
| FA: | Greg Cameron and Clean Dan Grandusky |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Season: | Summer |
| Submitted By: | Greg Cameron on Jul 26, 2003 |
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Espresso with approximate belays.
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Description This is the obvious crack system just left of Coffee Achievers (which, by the way, is a great route that rarely gets done). Espresso merges with Coffee Achievers at the top of the 4th pitch.
Rappel down the Black Wall via the standard rappel route, and scramble north (right) along the base of the wall, past the Rusty Dagger and Parallel Universe aid routes. The route begins on a large ledge about 50 feet above the base of the wall, which is just north and a bit down (via a 4th class chimney) from the larger, grassy ledge from which Parallel Universe is accessed. Note that, although this climb is adjacent to Coffee Achievers, you access Coffee Achievers from the valley floor rather than by traversing the base of the Black Wall.
P1). Climb up the finger and hand crack on the far, right side of the ledge (5.10) to a stance.
P2). Continue up the crack using stem, layback, and crack techniques (5.11a) to easier climbing, and then continue up the crack to the same ledge system that forms the 3rd belay of Coffee Achievers. Note that the Espresso belay is well left of the Coffee Achievers belay on this ledge system.
P3). Traverse left about 40 feet to an obvious boulder, then climb a beautiful, shallow, left-facing dihedral (5.10+) to a stance on top of a pillar-like feature.
P4). Continue up and right about 60 feet to the base of the chimney slot which is also the belay for Coffee Achievers.
P5). Climb through the often wet chimney, through an overhanging (but easy) hand crack. Above this, stem up a pegmatatic section until you can gain access to the left wall, and two, horizontal cracks. A tough move, 5.10, to actually gain the wall gets you to the cracks. Follow the cracks out straight left (5.9) until you get to easier ground. Another 40 feet of easy climbing puts you on top.
Protection Standard rack up to a #4 Camalot (2).
Pitch 3.
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.11a
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Rob Keply on the last pitch.
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By mike schlauch
Jul 24, 2008
| P1 - 30 meters to a ledge on the right. 5.10.
P2 - 55 meters. Solid 5.11. Traversed left from belay on some xenolithes to a 5.9 crack and then back right into the arching crack. A bit of flakey / crumbly rock here. Bats too. After the crack, keep angling left to the base of the obvious left facing corner. Might get better after alot of ascents, but right now this pitch is kinda nasty.
P3 - 45 meters. Some spicey, crumbly 5.10 climbing off the belay into a pretty good, 5.10, left-facing corner passing lots of interesting shrubbery. Belay after a roof on right with a couple extra hand-size pieces &/or a slung chockstone.
P4 - 30 meters. Go up 9+ pink double hand cracks to another xenolith face climbing section (or possible wide crack section on right)Belay where you can find a dry spot.
P5 - 40 meters, 5.10b. Up and then traverse / stem left to obvious horizontal cracks (some fixed nuts up there) then continue left and out. Not as wet as predicted.
Overall, kind of an adventurous route. Maybe 1 star. Needs more traffic. Standard rack with doubles thru 4 Camalot. No fixed anchors. |
By Rob Kepley
From: Westminster,CO
Aug 30, 2009
rating: 5.11-
| Climbed this route Sat with Jay. I'd give it 2 stars overall, however, the crux pitch and the 10+ pitch above are outstanding. It still needs to clean up a bit though. The last few pitches are junk which were quite wet and mossy. |
By Jay Brown
Aug 31, 2009
| Tough route at high altitude! Has anyone climbed the cracks on the left face of the 3rd pitch? They would be aid. Overall, a very adventurous route! Stays dry through rain and snow! Some good ones and some frightening sections. |
By Armin
From: Arvada, CO
Sep 15, 2011
| Got bouted on this route on 8/11. We left some stoppers and slung great horn near top P1 to escape. Did the walk of shame in climbing shoes climber's right of the wall to get back out. Definitely be prepared for some adventure on this route! |
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