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Espolones de San Gabriel
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Espalon T 
La Raya T 

Espalon 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 550'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 234
Submitted By: GMBurns on Jan 9, 2011

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BETA PHOTO: Espalon

Description 

Pitch One (5.5) - 60 feet: Climb the left-facing corner and low-angle slab to the top of the crack and a boulder. Step right over the boulder to a nice ledge with a tat around a boulder on top.

Pitch Two (5.6) - 130 feet: Climb straight up toward the large overhang / small roof, clearing it on the right (though the left looks fairly straight-forward, too). There may be multiple tat stations before and after the roof, but the easiest one to work from is slightly left of the roof where there are two old pins.

Pitch Three (5.6) - 140 feet: Head straight up, follwing the path of least resistance to a fairly comfortable belay off to the left just below easy terrain on broken rock and what appears to be the summit from below.

Pitch Four (5.7) - 135 feet: Climb up over the broken rock to an easy walk for about 40 feet to a small offwidth / wide crack. Climbing the offwidth is the crux. I personally climbed the sketchy crack to the left after making the exposed step across. The sketchy crack was actually pretty easy despite the gear not feeling 100% secure. Rope drag can be an issue with this pitch.

Descent: Walk off the back and to the climber's right by down-climbing easier-than-it-looks terrain. The slide your way down the loose dirt and rock until it is easy to walk back around to the base on the right.

Location 

From the point where you reach the base of the cliffs on the left (facing toward the road), there is a tall, broken, low-angle face up to the right that is facing the stream. Head up to the base of that and scramble up right to the alcove at the base of a left-facing corner.

Protection 

small to medium-sized gear. Some larger can be used but is not required (depending on how you attack the route).


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