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Dead Cholla Wall
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Esmerelda S 
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Somebody Loaned Me a Bosch S 
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Waiting for the Sun S 

Esmerelda 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 1,320
Submitted By: Jason Halladay on Feb 18, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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Pulling through the crux of the route. After getti...

Description 

A quality arÍte route. Clip a very well-placed bolt just over the roof at the blocky start before going into the thin, technical crux of the route getting up to, and past, the second bolt. Then enjoy fun face and arÍte climbing to the anchor.
The route steepens near the top but the holds are juggy making for some great position and moves.

Location 

This is the next to last bolted route on the far end of the wall, just left of the route Leave it to Bob which has gray hangers.
It's easily identifiable by the undercut, blocky start to the nice arÍte above.

Protection 

5 bolts to a two-bolt anchor. Like many of the anchors at Dead Cholla, there are no lowering chains on these anchors. We just left our draws on the bolts and grabbed them from the top on our way out. On this route, it's a bit of a stretch to grab the draws from the top but there is another set of bolts up on top so one could set a TR very easily.


Photos of Esmerelda Slideshow Add Photo
Right of the arete.
BETA PHOTO: Right of the arete.
Arjun through the tricky and delicate crux, photo by Hanna.
Arjun through the tricky and delicate crux, photo ...

Comments on Esmerelda Add Comment
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By Tradoholic
May 19, 2011
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

Not as good as Twisted Feet but this was still very good. I had trouble with the third clip, best to move to the holds to the right of it before clipping, however those moves were a little insecure so I maxed out my reach and clipped from the good stance, that wouldn't be possible for someone under 6ft.
By tim naylor
Oct 19, 2011

four stars? good route for dead cholla wall but most routes seem awkward. one move wonder?
By Jason Halladay
Administrator
From: Los Alamos, NM
Oct 21, 2011

Star ratings on MP are subjective and everyone gets their own vote which leads to a nice consensus grade. Also, I believe most people consider the star ratings "local to the area". That is, Esmerelda gets four stars from me because I believe it's very much worth doing at Dead Cholla compared to the other routes I've climbed there.
By arjunmh
From: Phoenix, AZ
Aug 14, 2012
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c

I completely agree -- I assign stars for a given area, not relative to ALL the classic climbs. So, given the 3 quick jaunts I've had to this area, this is definitely my favorite climb. So, for the area I can understand 4 stars....but, give it 3 simply b/c it's so short, as they all are out here.