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 ADVANCED
Corner Walls
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Escape from Paradise (formerly unfinished route) S 
Leave It To Beaver TR 
Micheladas S 
Sam-O-Rama S 
Scooter S 
Stand and Deliver S 
Succulent Muffin Concept S 
Swag TR 
Sweet Action S 
Upchuck Thrill S 
Welcome To Paradise S 

Escape from Paradise (formerly unfinished route) 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 20'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: ?????, Finished by Ryan Ray and Scott Rhode
Page Views: 188
Submitted By: Ryan A. Ray on Mar 30, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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Description 

This route has sat unfinished for many years with only one bolt and two anchors. It has been lead ground up and from traversing into it from Welcome to Paradise with only the one bolt. Due to ground fall potential, lack of traffic, and the fact that it sat for so long unfinished we decided to finish it.

Start from the block just left of Welcome to Paradise. Pull the ground level overhang through good edges until you catch the rail about midway up. (PLEASE NOTE: it is possible to take a groundfall from here while clipping the second bolt...however you have a great hold and good feet for making the clip. Just exercise caution.) Finish on good edges at a 2 bolt belay.

Protection 

2 bolts, 2 anchors.


Comments on Escape from Paradise (formerly unfinished route) Add Comment
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By Ryan A. Ray
From: Keller, TX
Mar 30, 2012

I hope I did not step on anyones toes by finishing this route. It has been there unfinished for as long as I could remember. We left it alone for years thinking the original bolters would eventually return to finish what they started. If you were the original bolters...I apologize in advance if i stepped on your feet with this. Please contact me if you find this message. I would like to add your names to my Database of FA's at POB.
By Scott Strong
From: Dallas, TX
May 5, 2012
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

I gotta say Ryan, I really feel that this route is as hard, if not harder than Sweet Action and really deserves a solid 5.10 rating. If not that, then at least 9+. Unless there is some super secret squirrel beta!
By Ryan A. Ray
From: Keller, TX
May 7, 2012

hey, maybe so. Felt 5.9ish to me, but then again, im a tall lanky fool. I can reach what others cant reach.
By maddy
Jun 13, 2012

nice job rr
By Scott Strong
From: Dallas, TX
Jul 2, 2012
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

The reaches are definitely gigantic if you're not 6'4". Mark is taller than me he didn't feel it was hard. So this is definitely height dependent.
By Mark Pell
Jan 31, 2013

Ryan, c'mon dude! This is 5.10 all day, and definitely not the kind you'd recommend to a 5.9 leader since it has some injury potential on 'necky' climbing that you make trivial with your height and reach. However I don't think anyone has a problem with this line being retrobolted and everyone I know is glad somebody finally did the deed. Thanks. I agree this climb is similar in difficulty to Sweet Action and Succulent Muffin Concept.