Escape from Alcatraz
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An interesting line that escapes from the pedestal jutting out of the river in the middle of River Wall. Reach the pedestal by rock hopping across the river (impossible in spring/summer), access the right side of River Wall and boulder to the pedestal (also tricky in spring) or rappel from the top. Note: place draws on one side of rope while rappeling so the rope doesn't fall into the drink. Belay off the pedestal anchor bolt and either place protection or run it out to the first bolt. After the first bolt, insecure climbing reaches a layback and undercling flake. Tricky route finding above leads to 15 foot easy run-out terrain to the top - a protectable crack is slightly right of the last bolt. A solid, and fun thinking man's route.
One bolt anchor on pedastal. Small nut or 0.5 tricam protects mantel that reaches 1st bolt. Five bolts to two bolt anchor atop. Somewhat runnout, but clean falls. Long slings (4+ feet) suggestable for setting up a toprope off the bolts which are back from the top of the cliff.
It was mid 40s and Yager backflopped into the rive...
|Comments on Escape from Alcatraz
Oct 13, 2005
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 5c
This is a great sport climb that is in fact tricky after the underclings. . . I traversed a bit right toward the crack and placed a small alien to keep from the 10+ RO. The second time I just ran it out. It is a thought-provoking line and feels a bit desperate for a move or two - though a fall wouldn't hurt ya too much I s'pose. 11a.
|By Hank Caylor|
From: Golden, CO
Apr 16, 2009
My favorite mid-Summer climbing area. The spray from the waterfall, the crystal clear water, world class trail-running, fly fishing and insane undeveloped bouldering all with an icy cold dip at the end of the day. This whole place is a blast!
|By Scott Matz|
From: Loveland, CO
Jul 27, 2009
Well Cale lead first using a nice, yellow ultralite to protect the Mantle. Then cog to the runout on the third bolt and didn't feel right. I lead to the R.O. and placed a nice fitting #1 C-4, and continued to the third and forth bolts, now small cams and possible another #1 would help protect the rest of the route, or one could venture on out on Livewire.