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Going for it on Escalator, 10b!
This route would be fantastic if it was twice as long. Also, the crux start will be even more difficult for shorter people.
Walk around the corner to the right of Lower Progressive
to a broken, right-facing dihedral with a fin of rock in it. Scramble up this (beware loose boulder halfway up) to a ledge. The route begins here and follows a left-rising splitter up to a notch. Pull a difficult start to gain some jugs before the crack. Angle up and left on hand jams to wide-hands, then back to hands. Good footwork will ease the difficulties. Reach a ledge and rappel from 2 Metolious rap hangers.
Optional med-large nut for start, #1, (2) #2, #3.5 Camalot.
By Tom Kelley
Jul 9, 2013
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
I really like this route even if it is so short. Getting started off the overhung finger jams with bad feet will crucify those few people who are shorter than I am. I used to do this route a lot more frequently as it was on the path of descent from the first pitch of Progressive prior to the rap anchors being installed.