Can you just camp anywhere on the public land? I have never been out there. Any additional info is appreciated. PM me if you don't want to post it on the forum.

Thanks

Coop,

Camping is easy to find, as there are quite a few dirt roads/pulloffs that branch from the main road. good luck, and let us know how things go out there.

Penitente is great!!!I was down there just a few weeks ago, for this first time, and found it really easy to find camping. I would camp where the guidebook tells you to, ( it's a Bob'D book by Falcon.) Super simple and super close to the climbing, (I think it is right off of G road.)

Of course, if you want, you can always camp on BLM land if it is unmarked. Just make sure you are on BLM land, or there could be trouble if you are on somones private land. I would just camp at Penitente. There are like twelve single campgrounds and a larger group site.

If you have anymore questions feel free to PM me, oh, and I will get on that Vail conditions report soon too! Have fun!

camping at everest base camp is pretty good also. the best part is you don't have to pick up your own trash.

There is not just a bunch of BLM out there. There is a large ranch that owns most of the canyon. Make sure you do not camp in their land. If you know where the Green Machine wall is, the camping is near there. There will be a small access road on the left if you are going up canyon. This will be quite a bit past the cabin and interior walls. Do not camp near the Potholes recreation area. When in doubt go farther up the road. Periodically there will be signs on the road that say things such as " Entering Private land". Most importantly please be sensitive to the ethic of the past and only replace existing anchors if they are bad if you have intentions of drilling.
-Jesse

If you go to Google Maps and type in these coordinates it will give you a good idea of the camping. I am pretty sure this is the right place it is hard to tell one small dirt road from another. If it looks like really good climbing across the stream from where you are camping you are in the right spot.

Coordinates: 38.6512,-108.37508

We use to camp at the cabin area. Great place to just hang out and not climb. But I'm out dated, so I'd heed Jesse's advice if I was you. Have fun, wish I was coming along.

good point jesse about the private property, it has been a while since i've been there and i usually camp in a handful of spots. like jesse said, keep an eye out for the signs that tell you when you are entering or exiting private property.

I can't say for sure, but it seems like you could camp at the spot below the interiors wall... I think it says you cross into BLM land right before your at the interiors wall.

Hey Jesse what is that other wall you speak of, seems there is alot in the area but it's all hush hush. You should post up some beta!

There are a few camping places. These are marked in typical fashion. They have fire rings and are off the road a bit. Please do not just set up camp any place. Please do not camp on pull offs right below the climbing cliffs.
As far as beta for the area I am surprised that there isn't more mountain project information. There is nothing very "hush hush" about it. Mostly it is an area that has a long and old history filled with adventure. To preserve and respect that sense of adventure less is posted about it than other areas. There are many cliffs and most of the lines have been done. You need only to explore and start up some line to understand what it is all about.
-Jesse

I can understand the sense of adventure thing, I find it kinda discouraging though as it's a long drive for me to go there. Last time we climbed the easiest route in the area (known to me), felt like we sucked a bit and didn't climb anything else. Bummer, after a 4+ hour drive.

I guess I should just lug my aid gear with me so when I get owned by the classic looking lines I can just aid to the top and not have an ordeal getting my gear back. Problem with that is the extra time lost if we suck it up by not knowing what anything is rated.

As a destination this place sucks, great local crag I would guess, if you know what's up. otherwise just pretend your out there to climb new lines that have already been sent most likely. Don't expect to get much done for your long drive unless you are the type to climb 5.10 crack and up. Atleast that's the impression I get, but I've only been once so what do I know?

jason, that's kind of part of the game in climbing there. the climbing is kind of scary, the grades are as stiff as anywhere i have climbed, and sometimes you spend a day getting the $h!t kicked out of you. At the end of the day, if you and your partner make it back to the car without dying, and you have most of your gear, you were successful. i've done a little over 70 routes there, and i can't think of too many that were casual.

i'll PM you and try to get you headed in the right direction.

I wouldn't go down there unless you are a solid 5.10 climber. It just wouldn't be very fun. As you may have found out...
-Jesse

Yea, I'm still not feeling exactly solid on 5.10 trad, I've onsighted a few 5.10 cracks in the platte, but I guess I need more mileage. I think especially varied mileage as the south platte and escalante canyon are 2 very different places. I guess mostly I just really need to start climbing more as I haven't been climbing much this summer.

jason, did you get my pm?

Yea thanks slim, I tore a muscle in my back at work 2 days ago and I don't know when I'll be able to get out unfortunately. My friend Nate just bought a #4 and #5 big bro which he's looking to test out. I might just have to be the belay slave. Maybe I'll be feeling up to leading the ghost dancer spire. Guess Ill just have to see how I feel. Thanks for the info though, hopefully we'll get to put it to use. BTW, any advice on thin hands technique, it seems that there is a fair bit of that there, and that and off fingers is my worst size.

Thanks again for the info slim, I'm sure I'll find it quite useful, also what's the wall across from the interiors area?

jason,

there are quite a few routes across the creek to the south of the interiors wall. several of these are in the original desert rock. there are kind of 3 buttresses, with routes on each. the biggest buttress has a nice splitter fingers to hands to fists thing that sometimes has a midway anchor. it is 5.8 to midway and 5.10 to the top. i think there might be bolted anchor at the top these days.

thin hands - don't tape, and do a LOT of them. for me, at the beginning of desert crack season i always feel a little bit off. doing a lot of them consistently builds confidence, which helps stay more relaxed. off fingers thumb stacking - build a contraption to train for it. a couple 12" pieces of 2x6 lumber, with bolts that connect them to make a ringlock sandwich. attach some cord, throw it over a pulley to some weights. great way to train in the offseason, and it gives you a good chance to learn about the many subtle changes and configurations.

escalante is like the vedauwoo of the desert. there is a sick density of OW from good beginner to ultimate puker. explore, be careful, and have fun!

My favorite line of the entire thread
"OW from good beginner to ultimate puker"

Did you end up going and finding the camping COOP?
Thanks,
Jesse

Jesse,

We ended up climbing outstide of New Castle and Rifle. I am looking forward to some climbing and exploring in Escalante Canyon this winter as it looks like fun.

Anybody headed out there this weekend? I will print what I can from here but I still need a copy of the Original Desert Rock. Anyone working on an update for the routes in this area?