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Routes in Cadillac Crag
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[Redacted] S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Auburn Court T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Auburn Lane T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Black Face, The S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Brand New Cadillac S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a R |
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Bro'd Less Traveled, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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Deviant T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Easy Street T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Emission Control T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b X |
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Escalade T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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Evening Stroll T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Flash Cadillac TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Garbage Pile T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Ghetto Cruiser T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Gonzo T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Heartbreaker [aka Never Cry Wolf] T,S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Highway of Diamonds T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Highway Of Ra T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Ichiban Arete T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Land of Ra T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Let it Vee T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Midnight Trundler T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Moonlight Drive T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Shallow Dihedral T,TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Stargate T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Twistoflex T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Untitled, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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V3 T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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You're Ugly and Your Mother Dresses You Funny T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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| Type: | Trad, 135 ft (41 m) |
| FA: | Steve Levin, Dougald MacDonald |
| Page Views: | 1,825 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | Dougald MacDonald on Feb 17, 2008 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Closures - lifted
Details
Update: as of 6/7/23 per Mike McHugh, ECSP: all closures have been lifted within Eldorado Canyon State Park, including Continental Crag.
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Description
This long, varied, and challenging pitch climbs the south side of Fin 1, following the crack and corner line left of Ghetto Cruiser. A hard move over an overhang at the low point of Fin 1 gains a fun finger and hand crack. Step left at the end of the crack and climb a slab to the base of an overhang with an old piton anchor. Clip this with a very long sling, step back right, and stem a shallow corner and ramp. Mantel onto a good hold at the top of the ramp, place small to medium cams in a bomber slot, then do a hard move up and left, along a square-cut corner, to reach good wires and the top of the prominent flake system. Hand-traverse the wide flakes to finish in the chimney slot of Ghetto Cruiser.
This route has many 5.9 and 5.10 moves, with mostly good pro. There are short run-outs on the slab below the roof, on the upper ramp, and on the crux above the end of the ramp.
This route has many 5.9 and 5.10 moves, with mostly good pro. There are short run-outs on the slab below the roof, on the upper ramp, and on the crux above the end of the ramp.
Protection
A full Eldo rack, with emphasis on small cams and small wires, including RPs, plus at least one big piece (No. 3 to 4 Camalot) for the final flakes. A blue Alien or equivalent is very useful in the ramp section. Be careful to adequately extend any runners placed left of the main line or under roofs to reduce rope drag and prevent any danger from sharp edges. Double ropes might be useful.
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