|Type:||Trad, 1 pitch, 135'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b PG13 [details]|
|FA:||Steve Levin, Dougald MacDonald, David Goldstein|
|Submitted By:||Dougald MacDonald on Feb 17, 2008|
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|Comments on Escalade||Add Comment|
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By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
May 1, 2010
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
A very good climb that needed a little more cleaning. I inadvertently gave it just that. A handhold snapped and in the course of trying to recover my balance, I sheared off a delicate foothold & took a pretty good fall. Joseffa broke a loose one off following, too. The resulting edges are better than the originals, and this was well below the crux, so the grade was not effected.
The worst pro on the route is a "good" #1 RP next to a blue Alien in a so-so horizontal. This protects against what might otherwise be a long and dangerous fall from the crux. Then a 1.5-2" cam may be placed in the middle of the crux, which I actually found to be a bit powerful, but on good enough holds so as to be easier than the climbing down lower where the less comforting gear was.
After pulling the last roof/bulge (big moves on good holds) you get run-out quite a bit unless you take a #4 Camalot for behind the big flake up top. Beware that if you climb the flake on the outside (lie-back style) that the top right section of it is detached, so don't pull too had unless you want to take a big fall.
Past the flake you can run it clear to the top for a nearly 200' single pitch.
One of the best things about it is its 'improbability' as the book puts it. The climb keeps looking like it will get very hard or impossible, but at each critical juncture gives you just enough of something to keep it 5.10.
Overall, the route was modestly rated for quality by the FA party. It is fun moves on interesting rock and deserves at least 3 stars.