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Dozier Dome
Routes Sorted
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Angelic Upstart T 
Bit by Bit T 
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Cheeseburgers and Beer T 
Cheetos and Everclear S 
Dozier Dihedral T 
Dumpster Evangelist T 
Errett By Bit T 
Errett Out T 
Felsic S 
Holdless Horror T 
Isostacy T 
Loud and Obnoxious S 
Plutonics S 
Read Between the Lines TR 
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You, Me, and the Dike T 

Errett By Bit 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 260'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
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Submitted By: Sean on Aug 24, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (20)
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Eric Collins on Errett by Bit, Dozier Dome

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  • Description 

    This seems to be the combo favored by most, linking up the better parts of Errett Out and Bit By Bit.

    P1 coincides mostly with P1 of Errett Out, passing its low two-bolt anchor at 70 ft and continuing up the bolted face to the second-to-last bolt. At that point, instead of heading up to the last bolt of that pitch, veer up and right onto a right-slanting ramp to connect to the P1 bolted anchor of Bit By Bit.

    P2 goes up the entire P2 of Bit By Bit to that pitch's bolted rap anchor. Either rap here, or continue up the 5.8 P3 of Bit By Bit (which is indicated as P3 of Loud & Obnoxious here on MP) to another bolted rap anchor.

    Descent 

    Rap twice using two ropes down Loud & Obnoxious if no one is on that. To alleviate congestion, there's also another rap anchor (not shown in SuperTopo) visible about 80-90 ft below and to climber's right of the Bit By Bit P2 anchor, from which a long rap with two 70 m ropes would reach the base (two 60's might not reach the deck, but should reach the 4th class start of L&O). The project anchor at about 2/3 of the way up P1 of L&O and to climber's right as indicated in SuperTopo has only hangers and no rap rings or chains. Also possible to continue climbing beyond P3 of BBB to the top and do the long walkoff.

    Protection 

    Bolts mostly, single rack to 1.5", bolted rap anchors.


    Comments on Errett By Bit Add Comment
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    By old5ten
    From: Berkeley + Sunny Slopes, CA
    Aug 12, 2015
    rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13

    2nd pitch is fantastic knob climbing. One of the better routes around for the grade.
    By Colin Szehner
    From: Oakland, Ca
    Jun 8, 2016

    Awesome link-up, highly recommend. Last pitch doesnt have many bolts, 50-60 feet of runout climbing over easy terrain.

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