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Lizard Head Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Another Day At The Office T 
Blue Collar Crack T 
Cashmere Crack T 
Delicacy T 
Drama 
Errant Edge T 
King Lizard T 
Life of the Party T 
Manager's Special T 
Maverick Line T,TR 
Part Time Crack T 
Red Neck Slab T 
Squeeze My Lemon T 
Unknown Slab T 
Unknown Slab/Crack T 
Wings of Perception T 
Zesty T 
Zigzag T 
Unsorted Routes:

Errant Edge 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Ruckman Bros.
Page Views: 2,562
Submitted By: Sir Camsalot on Mar 19, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (46)
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Durf on the Errant Edge Courtesy of Troy Anderson...

Description 

Follows three bolts up chicken heads and small crystals on the right side of the Lizard Head wall. Spicy.

Location 

Right of Squeeze My Lemon on the Lizard Head Wall.

Protection 

Some pro available between the three bolts.


Photos of Errant Edge Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Between the first and second bolt.
BETA PHOTO: Between the first and second bolt.
Rock Climbing Photo: Follows three bolts up the right side with some pr...
Follows three bolts up the right side with some pr...
Rock Climbing Photo: Cary Siteman climbing in the crack toward the top ...
BETA PHOTO: Cary Siteman climbing in the crack toward the top ...
Rock Climbing Photo: The Boogie before the Errant Edge.
The Boogie before the Errant Edge.
Rock Climbing Photo: Stringing along on knob central.
Stringing along on knob central.
Rock Climbing Photo: Cary Siteman stepping out above the 3rd bolt on Er...
BETA PHOTO: Cary Siteman stepping out above the 3rd bolt on Er...
Rock Climbing Photo: At the Crack to the right and below the first bolt
BETA PHOTO: At the Crack to the right and below the first bolt
Rock Climbing Photo: At the final bolt.
At the final bolt.

Comments on Errant Edge Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated May 12, 2016
By Sir Camsalot
From: thankgodchickenhead, Ut
Mar 19, 2008

I only Tr'd this but will be back soon for the lead. A fall getting to the second bolt would put you in the trees.
By tenesmus
Mar 19, 2008

no it won't. Its fine and the climbing right there is nicely featured. This actually starts around the corner in the crack for a move or two before pulling onto the lip. Starting directly under the bolts onto that slab ramp feels kinda like .11a. There is a small cam placement for the juggy (honestly!) runnout to the anchors.
By Sir Camsalot
From: thankgodchickenhead, Ut
Mar 19, 2008

ah...I thought it started at that right trending ramp just right of Squeeze My Lemon. Fun shizz either way.
By Arie
From: Smog Lake City, Utah
Mar 20, 2008
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13

Wow, one of my favorite slabbin' craggin' leads in LCC. The short rightward trend above bolt 2 (or 3?) sports some wickedness and the final crack provides some welcome forgiveness. I've always started this down left of the bolts- but around the corner sounds like a prime idea. Used to be gear for anchors... probably still is...?
By Sir Camsalot
From: thankgodchickenhead, Ut
Mar 20, 2008

New (last year??) anchors have been placed up top.
By tenesmus
Mar 20, 2008

The tree belay for Squeeze My Lemon had grown into that block and loosened the last foot making the belay unsafe. So you can still belay with gear or you can continue on to the summit of the block and lower with a 70m rope.
By Stevie Nacho
From: Utah
Apr 13, 2008

Really fun route. Gear is not critical between the bolts, however a larger cam and long sling is nice at the top near the chain. The climbing is delicate, yet highly featured compared to other slab routes in the canyon. Right on for whoever put the chain anchor at the top of these route!
By Sunny-D
From: SLC, Utah
May 1, 2008

The Chain Anchor was added last fall (2007) by Tenesmus and Sunny-D. There are now several other routes in the area as well- All really fun "well" protected. pm me if you want information. I need to finish a couple of things up there before I post the routes
By Michael Buchanan
Apr 26, 2010
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

I thought, at the bottom, that this was going to be a crimpy sport climb. Boy was I wrong. Cool slab moves at the top! Wahooooo!
By Alex Quitiquit
From: Salt Lake City
May 13, 2012
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Awesome slab. A little sporty in the movement at the crux but fantastic. Not really PG13, you make the crux move with good pro. The top's a bit runout, but it's easy climbing.
By Erik R Johnson
From: Tacoma, WA
Apr 14, 2013

I just have to add my 2 cents...if you are planning to climb to the same anchors as "Squeeze my Lemon" and "Zesty," then you should bring gear for the upper cracks. Otherwise it is a serious runout (though as other posters have mentioned, the climbing up higher is easier).
By Charlie S
From: Ogden, UT
Nov 11, 2014

A climb most suited for a cold day. Interesting moves the whole way.
By Grant Burton
From: Holladay, UT
May 13, 2015

Great line, don't tr it just get after it! I liked having a cam to protect the moves going to the top of Squeeze My Lemmon. Although this is really more of mental pro as once you get going the moves are easy. I liked the slab start, it felt like 5.11 LCC slab.
By Shameless Shaemus
From: Cottonwood Heights, UT
May 12, 2016

Heady lead, seemed full value for a 10a going straight up bolt line (easy to get lost in much harder territory) cutting right to the edge/arete probably keeps it at 10a. Definite runnout up top w/o some gear. A fall before clipping the second bolt would not be good, rope stretch to ledges...probably warrant at least a PG-13 rating elsewhere?

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