Let's get together outside. One weekend. 400 FREE REI outdoor classes and outings across the nation, July 30-31.
Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
Erotic Dome
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Awfulwidth, The T 
Erotic City T 
Hot Lips S 
Leg Lifter, The T 
Volga Boat Men T 
Vulgar Boot Men T 

Erotic City 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 45'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Mike Paul, John Mallery & Mike Fogarty, December 1985
Page Views: 828
Submitted By: Will S on May 30, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [1 person likes this page.]
BETA PHOTO: "Erotic City". Photo by Blitzo.

Description 

The route starts as a relatively easy handcrack that ends after about 30'. At this point move right and continue in the thinner crack above through a steeper section to a ledgy topout.

The crux is the move to the right when the initial crack ends. It's a reachy and awkward face sequence, and is much harder than the rest of the route, which detracts a bit from the climb IMO. That said, it's still a worthy route.

Rap from either of the bolted anchors described in the comment below or walk off/downclimb either left or right. Having done the walkoff right, I recommend rapping.

Protection 

Pro to 2.5".


Comments on Erotic City Add Comment
Show which comments
By Murf
Nov 19, 2008

I think I always walked off to the climbers left, fairly short.
By C Miller
Administrator
Nov 19, 2008

There are two easy descent options available - traverse right from the top where you'll find a bolted anchor on the large boulder (visible in photo) sitting atop the "Leg Lifter" route or use the rap anchors on "Hot Lips", the route which takes the sun/shadow line to the right of Erotic City.
By Mike Fogarty
From: La Quinta, CA
Mar 5, 2012
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13

This climb is 5.11c ***

I Would like to know why this climb is now 5.11B **

I would love to see a 5.12 climber lead this onsight no falls first try!
By Murf
Mar 5, 2012

Mike - If you add the route to the site, you get to rate and star it. That being said, I believe Erotic City has been .11b in the Vogel guidebook since at least '92. MP.com also runs on a 4 star system so if you think 3 of 5 stars, that seems to correspond to 2 of 4 here.

Not quite sure what the last bit means, but I'm no 5.12 climber and I did onsite this route. Its kinda height dependent IMO and I'm 6' tall.
By RTM
Mar 5, 2012
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

This was my first 5.11 crack lead/send. Its been 20years or so, but I recall it to be quite doable - easy climbing and easy pro, straight into a short crux, then the top.
By Russ Walling
From: www.FishProducts.com
Mar 5, 2012

Might only be 10d if you are fit and have good shoes.
By caughtinside
From: Oakland CA
Mar 28, 2012

Got tunnel vision for the wrong sequence and it felt 5.12 in my bad shoes. Then I stopped being an idiot, figured it out, lowered, remembered I was fit, put on my good shoes... .10d.

Chris... what is the story on Hot Lips? I threw the rope down and gave it a go, pretty fun! Eventually got it all except the roof pull.
By Michael Paul
Apr 22, 2016

Don't know why people need to down rate in Joshua Tree all of the time. I first did "Stingray" before Suzuki and called it 5.13, it was up-rated. Anyone calling this route .10D is retarded...

The Definitive
Climbing Resource

Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run

Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps

Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes

Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!