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Erotic Dome
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Awfulwidth, The T 
Erotic City T 
Hot Lips S 
Leg Lifter, The T 
Volga Boat Men T 
Vulgar Boot Men T 

Erotic City 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 45'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Mike Paul, John Mallery & Mike Fogarty, December 1985
Page Views: 566
Submitted By: Will S on May 30, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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BETA PHOTO: "Erotic City". Photo by Blitzo.

Description 

The route starts as a relatively easy handcrack that ends after about 30'. At this point move right and continue in the thinner crack above through a steeper section to a ledgy topout.

The crux is the move to the right when the initial crack ends. It's a reachy and awkward face sequence, and is much harder than the rest of the route, which detracts a bit from the climb IMO. That said, it's still a worthy route.

Rap from either of the bolted anchors described in the comment below or walk off/downclimb either left or right. Having done the walkoff right, I recommend rapping.

Protection 

Pro to 2.5".


Comments on Erotic City Add Comment
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By Murf
Nov 19, 2008

I think I always walked off to the climbers left, fairly short.
By C Miller
Administrator
Nov 19, 2008

There are two easy descent options available - traverse right from the top where you'll find a bolted anchor on the large boulder (visible in photo) sitting atop the "Leg Lifter" route or use the rap anchors on "Hot Lips", the route which takes the sun/shadow line to the right of Erotic City.
By Mike Fogarty
From: La Quinta, CA
Mar 5, 2012
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13

This climb is 5.11c ***

I Would like to know why this climb is now 5.11B **

I would love to see a 5.12 climber lead this onsight no falls first try!
By Murf
Mar 5, 2012

Mike - If you add the route to the site, you get to rate and star it. That being said, I believe Erotic City has been .11b in the Vogel guidebook since at least '92. MP.com also runs on a 4 star system so if you think 3 of 5 stars, that seems to correspond to 2 of 4 here.

Not quite sure what the last bit means, but I'm no 5.12 climber and I did onsite this route. Its kinda height dependent IMO and I'm 6' tall.
By RTM
Mar 5, 2012
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

This was my first 5.11 crack lead/send. Its been 20years or so, but I recall it to be quite doable - easy climbing and easy pro, straight into a short crux, then the top.
By Russ Walling
From: www.FishProducts.com
Mar 5, 2012

Might only be 10d if you are fit and have good shoes.
By caughtinside
From: Oakland CA
Mar 28, 2012

Got tunnel vision for the wrong sequence and it felt 5.12 in my bad shoes. Then I stopped being an idiot, figured it out, lowered, remembered I was fit, put on my good shoes... .10d.

Chris... what is the story on Hot Lips? I threw the rope down and gave it a go, pretty fun! Eventually got it all except the roof pull.