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Eros 
Lost in Space 
Star Trekin' 
Winged Mongrel 

Eros 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Tom McMillan, Tom Howard 1979
Page Views: 597
Submitted By: joe disciullo on Jul 27, 2010
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Getting steep on Eros. Right before the crux roof...
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  • Description 

    Awkward climbing leads to a right to left angling crack. Massive Holds, great gear. Climbs like the latter part of Winged Mongrel but longer and more sustained. after turning the corner onto the face it saves a lot of rope drag to belay there. Then go up and right to the anchors.


    Location 

    25 feet right of Winged Mongrel.


    Protection 

    Standard Rack, doubles of #2 and #3 BD wouldn't hurt. It will take bigger gear if you want to lug it up.



    Photos of Eros Slideshow Add Photo
    Perfect tri-cam placement protects this funky section.
    BETA PHOTO: Perfect tri-cam placement protects this funky sect...
    Comments on Eros Add Comment
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    By TomCaldwell
    From: Clemson, S.C.
    Jun 6, 2011
    rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b

    No doubles necessary. A rack of tri-cams and nuts protects the traverse under the roof very well. There is an awkward placement (perfect tri-cam) right before you get to the big rest that starts the traverse into crux section.