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Reservoir Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Arch Arrival T 
Carruthers-Hauser T 
Cyborg T 
Dr. Carl T 
Dreadasaurus T 
Ernie Used to Box T 
Excuse Station T 
Finger Food T 
From Switzerland With Love T 
Frosted Flakes T 
Good Excuse T 
Gurka T 
Left Crack T 
Less Than Zero T 
Machete T 
Marvelous! T 
Middle Crack T 
Mud dahbber  T 
Ninja T 
No Excuse T 
Overlook, The T 
Pat's Crack T 
Pente T 
Pirate Treasure  T 
Raja T 
Rez Dawgs T 
Sharka Zulu T 
Skank on the Hanglow T 
Slot Machine T 
Sumo T 
Three Fools T 
Trust it T 
Unknown T 
Unknown 2 pitch route left of 3 fools T 
Unknown 5.10 T 
Unknown 5.11- (really long thin hands corner) T 
Unknown Offwidth R of wigglin' worm T 
Unnamed 38 - wide to fists and kind of wavy T 
Unnamed 5.10 ( 45 in 2013 Edition) T 
Unnamed 5.10 (Bloom Route 12) - popular hands corner T 
Warm-Up Handcrack T 
Wigglin' Worm T 
Will-Mento T 

Ernie Used to Box 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
Page Views: 3,160
Submitted By: Steven Lucarelli on Sep 29, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (25)
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right at the sinker thankgod hand jam

  • Portions of Reservoir Wall are on private land and should not be climbed. MORE INFO >>>
  • RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    This seldom climbed offwidth might be just what the doctor ordered for you wide crack affectiano's. Start in a flaring tight corner with a loose flake for your feet and a hand crack in the back. The crack slowly widens as you grunt your way up the flare to about #4 Camalot size. Take a good rest in a chimney stance, pull around a bulge and then start the right angling traverse. Hands to fists to offwidth take you to the anchor.


    Just right of Three Fools. An obvious wide crack in a flare that curves up and right after about 60'.


    This route requires mostly large gear up to a #5 Camalot. I would recommend 2 #2's, 3 #3's, 1 #3.5, 4 #4's, 1 #4.5 and 1 #5 these are all Camalot size's. Two bolt anchor at the end.

    Photos of Ernie Used to Box Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: #4 section
    #4 section
    Rock Climbing Photo: Ernie Used To Box
    Ernie Used To Box
    Rock Climbing Photo: Nick onsighting up Eddie Used to Box.
    Nick onsighting up Eddie Used to Box.

    Comments on Ernie Used to Box Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Dave E.
    From: washington
    Jun 11, 2009

    this thing is one of the funnest routes ive done at the creek. Asolutely Classic!!!
    By Nelson Day
    From: Joshua Tree, CA
    Nov 2, 2012
    rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

    I would say the first 60 feet of the crack is primarily #4 size, and only gets bigger near the chimney for a couple moves. I left a #4 at the top of the vertical crack, placed a #3 inside the chimney, and another #4 above the chimney. I recommend taking 7 #4 C4s, a 0.5 C4 2 #2s, 3 #3s, and a #5 for this route. I slung long all the pieces in the initial crack to avoid rope drag. An older 4.5 camalot is nice in the last 15 feet before the anchor (could take instead of a #4). This was my first off width lead, though, so a more seasoned off width enthusiast would probably feel fine with less. This number of #4 cams will let you leave 4 in the first 60 feet, one above the chimney, and two in the traverse crack. The traverse crack also takes the #2 cams and #3 cams. The 0.5 could go at the first big traverse move after the chimney. I had two 0.75 C4s (brought as recommendation from Bloom guide book). One fit at the start of the traverse move above the chimney. I tried to place a second one fully extended during the first big traverse move in a smaller crack, and it didn't fit! There is a #2 placement on the other side of the smaller crack where my 0.75 didn't fit, but the #2 takes up a really good hand jam slot...

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