Start at the deep, varnished chimney. Climb the outer edge of the varnish, getting occasional protection with small wired nuts.
Pitch 2 continues up the crack system as it turns into a forbidding offwidth. Stemming holds and a big cam make this pitch more reasonable than it first appears. After the offwidth turns into a chimney, work out a belay where you can find good anchor potential.
Pitch 3 finishes the crack, then presents a choice. The easier route is to follow the left branch, which turns into a good ramp. The right branch leads to an offwidth grovel, then easier climbing.
Pitch 4: From the top of the ramp, go up easy slabs and cracks.
Pitch 5: easy climbing leads to the unroping spot.
Descend by walking west, toward the Brownstone Wall, then hike down Juniper Canyon.
This route is on the south face of the Jackrabbit Buttress, a short distance upstream from Rose Hips. Hike into Juniper Canyon until you can thread a way through the boulders and brush to the base of the wall.
Std rack up to 6" cam
Climbing the varnish on pitch 1 of Ernest Stemming...
BETA PHOTO: The crack system followed by Ernest Stemmingway.
Looking down pitch 2. The climber is at the top o...
The easy upper slabs.
|By Sherri Lewis|
From: Sequim, WA
Mar 14, 2014
Be sure to stretch out before you head up this one. The route definitely lives up to its name!
The first two pitches are full-value fun on fantastic rock. Pitch 2 looks intimidating and improbable but go for it and you will be pleasantly surprised at how it unfolds. (Ample protection available in deep in slot, save a #4 or #5 for exit.) P1 150ft, P2 195ft.
For P3, after following the left-leaning crack 200ft to belay on the ramp, you can do one more 50ft pitch (5.6+?)traversing around the corner slightly lower and left to intersect the rap anchors on Smooth Operator(aka Sweet Crude). 2 double rope raps get you to the ground from here. Otherwise, from the belay on P3, head up and left for broken crack system leading to upper slabs and walk off via Brownstone Wall.
If it were longer, I'd give it three stars.