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Ernest Stemmingway 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 5 pitches, 700'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: FRA: Jeff Johnson, Joanne Urioste
Page Views: 1,373
Submitted By: Larry DeAngelo on May 27, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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The decision point on pitch 3 of Ernest Stemmingwa...

Climbing in Red Rocks after heavy rain can permanently damage the rock! MORE INFO >>>


Start at the deep, varnished chimney. Climb the outer edge of the varnish, getting occasional protection with small wired nuts.

Pitch 2 continues up the crack system as it turns into a forbidding offwidth. Stemming holds and a big cam make this pitch more reasonable than it first appears. After the offwidth turns into a chimney, work out a belay where you can find good anchor potential.

Pitch 3 finishes the crack, then presents a choice. The easier route is to follow the left branch, which turns into a good ramp. The right branch leads to an offwidth grovel, then easier climbing.

Pitch 4: From the top of the ramp, go up easy slabs and cracks.

Pitch 5: easy climbing leads to the unroping spot.

Descend by walking west, toward the Brownstone Wall, then hike down Juniper Canyon.


This route is on the south face of the Jackrabbit Buttress, a short distance upstream from Rose Hips. Hike into Juniper Canyon until you can thread a way through the boulders and brush to the base of the wall.


Std rack up to 6" cam

Photos of Ernest Stemmingway Slideshow Add Photo
Climbing the varnish on pitch 1 of Ernest Stemming...
Climbing the varnish on pitch 1 of Ernest Stemming...
The crack system followed by Ernest Stemmingway.
BETA PHOTO: The crack system followed by Ernest Stemmingway.
Looking down pitch 2.  The climber is at the top o...
Looking down pitch 2. The climber is at the top o...
The easy upper slabs.
The easy upper slabs.

Comments on Ernest Stemmingway Add Comment
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By Susan Ruff
Jan 13, 2015

When climbing Ernest Stemmingway, we found an open, empty carry case with a 32MB SD card in the side pocket. If you can describe what's on the card, it's yours.

There was also a badly smashed iphone at the base of the climb...
By Sherri Lewis
From: Sequim, WA
Mar 14, 2014

Be sure to stretch out before you head up this one. The route definitely lives up to its name!

The first two pitches are full-value fun on fantastic rock. Pitch 2 looks intimidating and improbable but go for it and you will be pleasantly surprised at how it unfolds. (Ample protection available in deep in slot, save a #4 or #5 for exit.) P1 150ft, P2 195ft.

For P3, after following the left-leaning crack 200ft to belay on the ramp, you can do one more 50ft pitch (5.6+?)traversing around the corner slightly lower and left to intersect the rap anchors on Smooth Operator(aka Sweet Crude). 2 double rope raps get you to the ground from here. Otherwise, from the belay on P3, head up and left for broken crack system leading to upper slabs and walk off via Brownstone Wall.

If it were longer, I'd give it three stars.
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