Start at the deep, varnished chimney. Climb the outer edge of the varnish, getting occasional protection with small wired nuts.
Pitch 2 continues up the crack system as it turns into a forbidding offwidth. Stemming holds and a big cam make this pitch more reasonable than it first appears. After the offwidth turns into a chimney, work out a belay where you can find good anchor potential.
Pitch 3 finishes the crack, then presents a choice. The easier route is to follow the left branch, which turns into a good ramp. The right branch leads to an offwidth grovel, then easier climbing.
Pitch 4: From the top of the ramp, go up easy slabs and cracks.
Pitch 5: easy climbing leads to the unroping spot.
Descend by walking west, toward the Brownstone Wall, then hike down Juniper Canyon.
This route is on the south face of the Jackrabbit Buttress, a short distance upstream from Rose Hips. Hike into Juniper Canyon until you can thread a way through the boulders and brush to the base of the wall.
Std rack up to 6" cam
Climbing the varnish on pitch 1 of Ernest Stemming...
BETA PHOTO: The crack system followed by Ernest Stemmingway.
Looking down pitch 2. The climber is at the top o...
The easy upper slabs.
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