|Type:||Trad, 5 pitches, 700'|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]|
|FA:||FRA: Jeff Johnson, Joanne Urioste|
|Submitted By:||Larry DeAngelo on May 27, 2008|
|Comments on Ernest Stemmingway||Add Comment|
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By Sherri Lewis
From: Sequim, WA
Mar 14, 2014
Be sure to stretch out before you head up this one. The route definitely lives up to its name!
The first two pitches are full-value fun on fantastic rock. Pitch 2 looks intimidating and improbable but go for it and you will be pleasantly surprised at how it unfolds. (Ample protection available in deep in slot, save a #4 or #5 for exit.) P1 150ft, P2 195ft.
For P3, after following the left-leaning crack 200ft to belay on the ramp, you can do one more 50ft pitch (5.6+?)traversing around the corner slightly lower and left to intersect the rap anchors on Smooth Operator(aka Sweet Crude). 2 double rope raps get you to the ground from here. Otherwise, from the belay on P3, head up and left for broken crack system leading to upper slabs and walk off via Brownstone Wall.
If it were longer, I'd give it three stars.