This is a great problem! Vertical pocket pulling!
Start with your right hand in an infamous, sloping dish and left in the heel hook jug for the Center Left route. Cross over with the left to a small, not too good, three finger edge. Your right hand goes directly above it to a shallow, two finger pocket, left hand out to a good edge, then up. Tweaky.
|Comments on Eric Varney Direct
|By Owen Silver|
Mar 10, 2003
This is a really hard, but great problem. If you are taller than 5'11", it's possible to reach the right hand crimp without stepping your right foot up to the tiny marked hold, and that may make a difference for some.
|By Peter Beal|
From: Boulder Colorado
Dec 27, 2003
For full value start on the good incut flake just below the big jug on the left. A longish move to the soap dish joins the regular problem. For fuller value, there is a contrived sit start just to the right of the flake and jug(Off for hands and feet). Start on two small crimps and get a pretty small sidepull with the right hand.Pull past a couple of thin crimps to the three finger edge and finish. After comparison with problems such as Swiss Crisp Mix at Hueco, it may be worth V10. Strictly for connoisseurs of the ridiculous.
|By Jordan Wood|
Jan 22, 2006
I used the small crimp just below the pocket. Is it supposed to be "off"?
Jan 9, 2009
I second that question, it seems hard with the crimp but impossible with the slick dish.
Feb 21, 2009
Edit to previous, not impossible with the dish. The foot beta is way right. Also the flagstaffblogspot guide says either crimp or dish and I agree they seem about the same.
Jul 24, 2009
I've done this problem multiple times. However, I was there last week and it seems that a pebble within the starting right hand dish has come out, making the start a bit easier. The tip of my middle finger gains some purchase on the new micro crater. Still a great problem! As far as the crimp being off, I think its harder to use the crimp that is just below the dish. Makes it harder to pivot off the right arm.