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Runway (Lower Tier)
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A Day with Dr. Diablo S 
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Ergo S 
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You're Scaring the Horses S 

Ergo 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Rick Bradshaw and Josh Smith
Page Views: 461
Submitted By: George Perkins on Oct 23, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (16)
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Description 

Fun moves up the buttress. Tricky thin moves between big holds down low. A inobvious move [used to have the namesake "ear"] is the crux at the bulge section midway up. More easier delicate and steep climbing on big holds, then the angle lessens for the last 2 bolts to the big ledge.

This climb is underappreciated, and doesn't see the traffic as much as other 5.10s at Diablo, probably because it's the only bolted 5.10 in this section of cliff (not right near most of the others). It is also the best way to access You're Scaring the Horses.

Location 

This climb is on the next prominent pillar left of Drunk Rednecks... toward the lowest part of Early Wall.

Protection 

10 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.


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By Scott Beguin
From: Los Alamos, NM
Oct 26, 2007

I believe the FA was Rick Bradshaw and one other whose name I can't remember.
By Rick Bradshaw
From: Los Alamos, NM
Apr 22, 2008
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Josh Smith and I put this route up originally to gain access to the arete above it so we could work on what is now "Your Scaring the Horses" but it turned into a great route itself. Josh named it after the ear side-pull down low that facilitates upward motion in that section.