|368 page views|
Fun moves up the buttress. Tricky thin moves between big holds down low. A inobvious move [used to have the namesake "ear"] is the crux at the bulge section midway up. More easier delicate and steep climbing on big holds, then the angle lessens for the last 2 bolts to the big ledge.
This climb is underappreciated, and doesn't see the traffic as much as other 5.10s at Diablo, probably because it's the only bolted 5.10 in this section of cliff (not right near most of the others). It is also the best way to access You're Scaring the Horses.
This climb is on the next prominent pillar left of Drunk Rednecks... toward the lowest part of Early Wall.
10 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.
|By Scott Beguin|
Oct 26, 2007
I believe the FA was Rick Bradshaw and one other whose name I can't remember.
|By Rick Bradshaw|
From: Los Alamos, NM
Apr 22, 2008
Josh Smith and I put this route up originally to gain access to the arete above it so we could work on what is now "Your Scaring the Horses" but it turned into a great route itself. Josh named it after the ear side-pull down low that facilitates upward motion in that section.