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YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b

Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b [details]
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Submitted By: Kevin Heckeler on Apr 25, 2011
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Tough opening moves to reach the corner/ramp and small tree about 15 feet up. Then continue up and left until you are below a crescent shaped right-facing corner. Face climb just to the right of the corner for a bit, then move over to the corner once it's within reach. Staying too far right for too long is stiff 5.8+ climbing. At the top of the corner begins the flake system (continuation of the corner) on the left, which is followed to the top.


Start at low point in land 20-25 feet right of Rockaholic, below a small overlap that gains a right facing, left leaning corner/ramp. Rap station nearby at top and trees for anchoring.


Standard rack, easily protected.

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By Chris Duca
From: Havertown, PA
Jun 4, 2011
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b PG13

It is worth noting that the opening moves are not protected, and minimal gear is found (save for slinging the scrawny birch) until you are under the crescent-shaped corner proper. Though the climbing above the hard opening moves are relatively easy (5.4ish), it is roughly 30 feet to good protection.

By Ian Dibbs
Jul 8, 2011

I'll confirm that the first move off the ground is 5.9 ish with no protection.Mid route is relatively straight forward, then the climb gets harder after the half way up point (5.7 ish)but is a lot of fun. There is a slung tree at top to connect rope to.

By Jaysen Henderson
From: White Plains, New York
May 7, 2012

linking Rockaholic to Equis was super fun, safer and you get the best of both routes! just traverse right about 30 feet up at the horizontal to go from Rockaholic to Equis.

By Jay Harrison
Dec 7, 2012
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c PG13

Were it not for the unprotected start (which is significantly harder than 5.7) and the tendency for that start to be wet, this would be a great climb. The upper part is good, well-protected, thought-provoking 5.7. That start is terrible and the landing should you fall is nasty, a definite bone-breaker.

By John Ely
From: DC
Aug 26, 2013

Really fine climb. A yellow alien or some similar tcu fits in a slot to protect the bottom bouldery move....