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Equinox 

5.12c

   
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Type: Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet
Consensus: 5.12c [details]
FA: Dennis Johnson 1972, FFA (TR): John Bachar May 1978, First Lead: Tony Yaniro, 1981
Submitted By: Steve Juhasz on Dec 30, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (18)
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RTM on Equinox. photo: K.Sako

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Description 

The line of the route is not hard to spot. It is a unique crack up the vertical west face of the giant boulder which forms the summit of Jerry's Quarry. The start of the crack is thin fingers, and is is covered partially by a huge "ear-like" flake. Mantle onto this, and continue up the thin crack with increasing difficulty. The crux comes at about 25 feet when the footholds vanish and the face overhangs a degree or two past vertical. After this, some nice finger locks replace the desperate finger-tip jams, and the angle eases slightly. Be sure to utilize the tiny but solid edges under the crack for your feet. Just before the mantle onto the summit, you have an almost no-hands rest, and one you will want to milk! At the top, savour your send of one of the world's finest routes, at one time one of the first routes graded 5.13, (hey, they had EB's and straight-sided nuts).

It's possible to scramble around the backside, where there's usually a short piece of rope to yard up and over the top, if you want a toprope.


Protection 

Despite the widening appearance of the crack near the top, the largest pro it takes is #3 TCU (or #1 friends). Take 2 each TCU's #1 and #2, one #3 and some finger sized stoppers.



Photos of Equinox Slideshow Add Photo
Ian on Equinox

Ian on Equinox

Photo: Bennett Barthelemy

Photo: Bennett Barthelemy

Me climbing Equinox on toprope. Incredible route, pretty steep.

Me climbing Equinox on toprope. Incredible route, ...

A perfect crack

BETA PHOTO: A perfect crack

Painful fingerlocks on Equinox

Painful fingerlocks on Equinox

Spot the line - Equinox (5.12c), Joshua Tree NP

Spot the line - Equinox (5.12c), Joshua Tree NP

Ian on Equinox

Ian on Equinox

Ian on Equinox

Ian on Equinox

Josh Higgins on Equinox.

Josh Higgins on Equinox.

Nicole Grider on Equinox.

Nicole Grider on Equinox.

Dan Goodwin on Equinox (5.12c), Joshua Tree NP. Photo by Anne-Marie Weber.

Dan Goodwin on Equinox (5.12c), Joshua Tree NP. Ph...


Comments on Equinox Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated May 9, 2013
By C Miller
Administrator
Oct 22, 2006
rating: 5.12c

A striking splitter and one of the best pure crack routes in Joshua Tree. Toproping this can be a bit easier than leading depending upon finger size.

Originally called "Et Tu" when done as an aid route.

By Michael Sokoloff
From: Spokane, WA
Oct 11, 2007

Placing gear is real straightforward on Equinox. I think that leading being a whole grade harder is a bit of an exaggeration. Harder yes. A full number harder, well...
Regardless, Equinox is arguably the finest crack in Jtree and one of the best fingercracks in the West if not the entire country.

By Will S
From: Joshua Tree
Nov 7, 2007

This thing is nowhere near "a full number grade easier" on TR. 5.11c on TR? Bwahahaha, that's a good one! If you're willing to take longish falls, there are decent locks/stances at the start, at the scoop, and above the scoop to place gear from. The gear is very straighforward, especially for a harder JT climb.

By Adam Stackhouse
Administrator
Nov 7, 2007

I've heard similar sentiments about this climb not being 5.12 if on TR.

By bheller
From: SL UT
Jan 2, 2008

My 2 cents: This finger crack is simply amazing. The best I have ever seen on an intrusive rock. Leading it or TRing it? Not much different in my opinion. I say this because the thing takes perfect gear everywhere. Finger size cams just fall in. There are also some spaced, but really good locks- so if you're resting on em anyways, why not just drop in a cam as well? This crack was also the most painful I have ever experienced. I had flappers on my fingers afterwards. It is brutal. Smear those feet and yard on those locks, try not to bleed out... good luck. It is as good as it gets.

By 426
Apr 20, 2008

I have to agree with *someone*, it was 11d+/- on TR with "discreet" rope tension ;)-

By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
Oct 19, 2008

I have to agree that this climb is harder on the lead than on TR. I sent second go on TR, but have yet to send it on lead. There's something about being locked off on a painful fingerlock, trying to wiggle in a cam, while the feet are skating and the arms are pumping out. That seems to add some difficulty.

By Brad G
From: Yosemite and else where
Feb 1, 2009

5.11? That stresses me out

By RTM
Feb 5, 2009
rating: 5.12c

haha, not sure I agree with that! the crux is 5.12 no matter what! the bottom may be .11+, the top may be .11-, but the crux? leading it didn't necessarily feel much harder than tr, just a little concerning because if you fall you may leave a finger. My finger went numb for 3 months after one attempt!

By C Miller
Administrator
Jun 8, 2009
rating: 5.12c

Equinox on Youtube -

By Jon Ruland
From: Tucson, AZ
Jun 2, 2010

that is tradass!

By mike c
From: arvada ,co
Dec 10, 2010

now thats a crack.!

By Bruce Hildenbrand
Feb 18, 2011

You gotta love it. People saying that doing a climb on TR is the same difficulty as leading it. Pretty soon people are going to start claiming an ascent just because they looked at a particular route.

By Will S
From: Joshua Tree
Feb 18, 2011

Bruce, some comments have been deleted in this. At one time there were a couple claiming this was a full number easier on TR vs lead...i.e. 11c on TR vs 12c on lead. Which, btw, is ridiculous. Even when those comments were in place, the reading comprehension and short attention span theater soon had folks arguing what you're on about.

By steve edwards
From: SLC, UT
Apr 5, 2011

I think this is the best route in Josh. If the first 15' were less painful it would be the most fun, too. It's easier to toprope, for certain, but four grades difference is a bit overboard. Maybe two for the pain factor of the first few placements through the crux. After that it's simply pleasure. Of course, this being a crack and all, my review is rather large guy dependant. A small female friend of mine has fallen off the top and finds the bottom locker.

By Tommy L-D
Apr 20, 2011

Replaced the tattered fixed line on the back of the formation.

By randy baum
From: Minneapolis, MN
Jan 7, 2012

is honnold free soloing equinox in this video? whatever the line, it looks awesome!

climbingnarc.com/videos/nikon-d4-promo-featuring-alex-honnol>>>

By Adam Stackhouse
Administrator
Jan 7, 2012

Sure looks like it Randy!

By TeleRoss
May 9, 2013

Got on this rig today, and man are those some painful finger locks. Such a sweet route!
Unreal that Honnold soloed that thing! Crazy!