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Hueco: V10-11 Font: 8A

Type:  Trad, Boulder, 15'
Consensus:  Hueco: V10-11 Font: 8A [details]
FA: Justin Edl and Brian Vansickle, 2007
Page Views: 2,767
Submitted By: JNE on Oct 8, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
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BETA PHOTO: Bouldering at its finest....

Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 MORE INFO >>>


This is a sixty degree overhanging finger crack roof. Start on the obvious jug to the left of the crack where the crack is still a seam. You can top out at the horizontal about ten feet out via a big flake, which is quite fun, or for full value you can follow the crack all the way out the roof, topping out on a hand and fist crack. Going all the way out bumps the grade to hard V11. If you take the crack all the way out, puzzle out the right foot sequence and the rock that is close at the end will be easier to get around. Also be warned, the left hand finger locks on this thing are particularly brutal. The crack is mostly good fingers. The name is inspired by how bizzarely balanced the rock this on is.


This on the easternmost side of holdouts southeastern face, right at the base of the formation. The crack faces up toward the formation.


A couple pads and a spotter are nice.

Photos of Equilibrium Slideshow Add Photo
Tough fingers.  Photo by Vanessa Cassat.
Tough fingers. Photo by Vanessa Cassat.
Closer view.
BETA PHOTO: Closer view.

Comments on Equilibrium Add Comment
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By Nick Wilder
Site Landlord
From: The Bubble
2 days ago

This route was apparently chipped, and then mortared. It's not clear who did it, and we're not going to use this space for unsubstantiated accusations. Prior comments about this issue have been deleted, as will future ones.

We can (mostly) agree that neither action is condoned by the community.
2 days ago

Thank you Nick :)

I'll go ahead and assume I did not come across as fill-in-the-blank-for-the-given-situation then...which translates to "Nick's life was made miserable with complaints."

I still think we need to have the chipper come forward and tell their story on this. Not sure how they think their actions are in no way to be focused on in any way whatsoever. Lame. Lamer still on the part of the community.

I'm also truly curious how a community, or anyone in it, or anyone anywhere else, can apparently claim that mortar put into a crack is a degradation of ethics when in said community it is socially permissible to chip boulders to suit ones personal tastes.

Also, for everyones erudition: Gaslighting
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