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Hueco: V10-11 Font: 8A

Type:  Trad, Boulder, 15'
Consensus:  Hueco: V10-11 Font: 8A [details]
FA: Justin Edl and Brian Vansickle, 2007
Page Views: 2,961
Submitted By: JNE on Oct 8, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
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BETA PHOTO: Tough fingers. Photo by Vanessa Cassat.

Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 MORE INFO >>>


This is a sixty degree overhanging finger crack roof. Start on the obvious jug to the left of the crack where the crack is still a seam. You can top out at the horizontal about ten feet out via a big flake, which is quite fun, or for full value you can follow the crack all the way out the roof, topping out on a hand and fist crack. Going all the way out bumps the grade to hard V11. If you take the crack all the way out, puzzle out the right foot sequence and the rock that is close at the end will be easier to get around. Also be warned, the left hand finger locks on this thing are particularly brutal. The crack is mostly good fingers. The name is inspired by how bizzarely balanced the rock this on is.

In the fall of 2015 someone took it upon themselves to chip a gently constricting and perfect hand jam into this boulder by removing a solid and un-flexing flake which was attached to the wall and taking up about a foot of the crack. A tool or other implement was used, and a story was circulated about there having been some "loose rock" in the crack that community minded climbers who really understood the world had taken it upon themselves to take care of and remove. The hand jam iteration of the problem was around v6, and similar to numerous other challenges around Vedauwoo in this grade range. Fortunately(unfortunately?) someone filled in the crack with mortar, presumably to preserve the original problem. The new iteration is solid v10, and just a touch harder than the old version, though it is a HUGE HUGE HUGE step down in aesthetics. Anyone who thinks we need to have man made crap proliferate rock climbs to the maximum extent possible need only go look at this thing. It is downright ugly, practically to the point of hurting ones stomach.

If this had been some honest mistake where the flake had broken off and the original problem was to be preserved, in my opinion the right thing to do would have been to get in touch with the person who opened the boulder (me) and involve them in the process of gluing the flake back in (or not, depending). This was not done here. Instead we have an eyesore.

Lastly, whoever chipped this boulder is just a disrespectful and ignorant person. Their actions are the height of arrogance. The person who put the mortar in there was trying to "fix" the chippers actions, so I personally hold the chipper responsible for that act as well.


This on the easternmost side of holdouts southeastern face, right at the base of the formation. The crack faces up toward the formation.


A couple pads and a spotter are nice.

Photos of Equilibrium Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Bouldering at its finest....
BETA PHOTO: Bouldering at its finest....
Rock Climbing Photo: Closer view.
BETA PHOTO: Closer view.

Comments on Equilibrium Add Comment
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By Nick Wilder
Site Landlord
From: The Bubble
Oct 11, 2015

This route was apparently chipped and then mortared. It's not clear who did it, and we're not going to use this space for unsubstantiated accusations. Prior comments about this issue have been deleted, as will future ones.

We can (mostly) agree that neither action is condoned by the community.
Oct 11, 2015

Thank you, Nick :)

I'll go ahead and assume I did not come across as fill-in-the-blank-for-the-given-situation then...which translates to "Nick's life was made miserable with complaints."

I still think we need to have the chipper come forward and tell their story on this. Not sure how they think their actions are in no way to be focused on in any way whatsoever. Lame. Lamer still on the part of the community.

I'm also truly curious how a community, or anyone in it, or anyone anywhere else, can apparently claim that mortar put into a crack is a degradation of ethics when in said community it is socially permissible to chip boulders to suit ones personal tastes.

Also, for everyones erudition:Gaslighting.

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