Equatorial 5.11b
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 110 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11a/b [details] |
| FA: | trevor massiah and greg collum |
| Submitted By: | caughtinside on Feb 28, 2007 |
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BETA PHOTO: Looking at Equatorial with someone on it from abou...
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Warning Stainless-steel bolts are suspect near the coast. A rebolting effort is underway. MORE INFO >>>
You can read about the warning here. There is extensive rebolting being done to replace suspect bolts with titanium glue-ins.
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Description This is the line that runs to the right of live and let thai, and left of Organ grinder. There is one bolt just off the ground protecting a challenging start move, then slightly run out on very easy ground to the second bolt. Wander your way up the grey rock on both sides of the blunt arete, and reach the anchor 35m up in a cave. fabulous climbing, with plenty of rest stances.
Location see description. We BARELY got down with a 60m rope that I think is cut a little long, with lots of stretch. I had to chain 10 feet worth of draws together to hold the rope on the ground, so my partner could tr it. dicey. A 70m would be great, you can barely lower off w/stretch on a 60(tie knot!!) or you can do an intermediate rap.
Protection 14 or so draws.
BETA PHOTO: At the anchor looking down on the route
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BETA PHOTO: A climber at the first crux of pulling over the fi...
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By richard magill
Apr 12, 2007
| Notes I had scribbled in my guide:
"Wow! Steep, long arete. Spectacular!"
You will want a 70M rope on this. |
By Clay Rardon
From: Morgantown, WV
Dec 28, 2007
| One of the best routes, not to be missed. several difficult moves spread out over 35m. |
By Ming
Nov 17, 2011
rating: 5.10d
| In the King Climber Book they have it as a 10D. I agree with the rating as none of the moves felt 11ish to me. Best part is that none of the moves are reachy at all (I'm 5ft 5in w/-3 ape index) . There were no one crux per se but a series of bulges that that the climber have to figure out how to pull. Super, super fun and I found it to be really enjoyable cruise. |
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