|Warning Stainless-steel bolts are suspect near the coast. A rebolting effort is underway. MORE INFO >>>|
This is the line that runs to the right of live and let thai, and left of Organ grinder. There is one bolt just off the ground protecting a challenging start move, then slightly run out on very easy ground to the second bolt. Wander your way up the grey rock on both sides of the blunt arete, and reach the anchor 35m up in a cave. fabulous climbing, with plenty of rest stances.
see description. We BARELY got down with a 60m rope that I think is cut a little long, with lots of stretch. I had to chain 10 feet worth of draws together to hold the rope on the ground, so my partner could tr it. dicey. A 70m would be great, you can barely lower off w/stretch on a 60(tie knot!!) or you can do an intermediate rap.
14 or so draws.
BETA PHOTO: At the anchor looking down on the route
BETA PHOTO: A climber at the first crux of pulling over the fi...
|By richard magill|
Apr 12, 2007
Notes I had scribbled in my guide:
"Wow! Steep, long arete. Spectacular!"
You will want a 70M rope on this.
|By Clay Rardon|
From: Bartow, WV
Dec 28, 2007
One of the best routes, not to be missed. several difficult moves spread out over 35m.
Nov 17, 2011
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
In the King Climber Book they have it as a 10D. I agree with the rating as none of the moves felt 11ish to me. Best part is that none of the moves are reachy at all (I'm 5ft 5in w/-3 ape index) . There were no one crux per se but a series of bulges that that the climber have to figure out how to pull. Super, super fun and I found it to be really enjoyable cruise.