Equalizing Figure 8 Rope Anchor

So, another question on anchoring for you rope-anchoring experts out there. Ive done a bit of tests on the "double figure of 8 loop" recently and have read up on its use for caving and it seems like its good for two placements that are near each other. I have no questions with that anchor.
The anchor method (or knot i guess you could say)i do have a question for is the "equalizing figure 8" method, where you tie a figure 8 in a large bight, run the loop back through the 8 and clip 3 of its legs. Does this really equalize well? Ive heard that the friction caused by piece failure can burn through the rope, is that true? Does that same friction make equality near impossible? Any info on this particular method would be greatly appreciated.

Once again, this is not. question for the double fig 8 loop or "bunny ears" method.

ChaseLeoncini wrote:Does this really equalize well?

No.

ChaseLeoncini wrote:Ive heard that the friction caused by piece failure can burn through the rope, is that true?

I doubt it. I've never heard of any instance of that.

ChaseLeoncini wrote:Does that same friction make equality near impossible?

Yes.

I, too, bought into the equalization bullcrap for a little while. Now I believe:

1) It is far more important to place bomber gear
2) Distribute the potential load as best as is reasonable among your placements.
3) Forget about self equalization.
4) NO extension. Ever.

That's me. YMMV. Look for some of the comments by Jim Titt and RGold about this. Ignore most of the other discussions.

ChaseLeoncini wrote:So, another question on anchoring for you rope-anchoring experts out there. Ive done a bit of tests on the "double figure of 8 loop" recently and have read up on its use for caving and it seems like its good for two placements that are near each other. I have no questions with that anchor. The anchor method (or knot i guess you could say)i do have a question for is the "equalizing figure 8" method, where you tie a figure 8 in a large bight, run the loop back through the 8 and clip 3 of its legs. Does this really equalize well? Ive heard that the friction caused by piece failure can burn through the rope, is that true? Does that same friction make equality near impossible? Any info on this particular method would be greatly appreciated. Once again, this is not. question for the double fig 8 loop or "bunny ears" method.

As mentioned it is a pretty worthless concept, I even tested it for someone a year or two back. Nylon on nylon has an even higher coefficient of friction (0.5) than nylon on aluminium (03.-0.2) so it is a dead idea.

Okay, ill drop that idea. Thanks guys. I appreciate your input.
Does anyone know of a simple and effective 3+ point rope anchor? One that i can trust. Theres sooo much garbage on the internet these days and books skimp on rope anchors. I juss dont want to find myself in the situation one day where ill need a method for 3+ points and dont have one. Ive seen the "clove each piece" method a bunch but wheres the equalization? What am i missing? help?

Question for ya. When will you need 3+points? A tr anchor will have different load directions than a multi pitch anchor. What kind of anchor do you want to build?

This is an elegant solution from Eli. Lots of other good anchoring video tutorials on his site too, including Yosemite-style clove-hitch equalization and how to adjust the equalized point of a sling anchor without retying it if you've changed the direction of pull.

climbinglife.com/rock-ancho…

ChaseLeoncini wrote: but wheres the equalization?

See? You're ignoring my sage advice.

You can check out this thread on rc dot com
rockclimbing.com/cgi-bin/fo…;page=unread#unread

RGold's method is good. With just a little practice it's pretty quick, too. If you lead on double ropes, building an anchor is even easier.

@Ol' Toby:
You sound like youre irritated with me. But what if i were to believe everything that comes from a single source? Id be tying in with Craig Connaly's Yosemite Bowline and be anchoring with equalettes on everything. Not saying thats the only thing John Long advises but he definitely feels strongly for it. I just want to broaden my horizons. I want to see what other people think of certain techniques. For example, the equalizing fig 8 above is used by many but i want more info; Ideally, trusted test results. Before any of my anchor related forum posts i viewed nearly ever video Eli had to offer. They are all exceptional videos and do help quite a bit so i thank you for offering. Its just... well id like more than a how to video. And what better place to ask for more info than a climbimg forum. :)

@Wivanoff:
Trust me, i didnt brush off your advice at all. You and Jim helped me a lot so thank you again. i just feel that i would like to keep equalizing as good as possible as well as keeping no extension. I guess in a way im also taking a poll. You know, 80% people said this 20% that. Im researching, getting info from sites, videos, forums, books and even photos. Hope you don't feel offended. Ive seen Rgolds post in another thread somewhere same pic and found it very helpful. This particular thread is even more in depth. Thanks again.

@John:
I think what youve got there is basically that Rgold method. Illcheck out that site too. Thank you for takin the time out to help.

See this is why i come to this forum, i get looked at strange sometimes but you guys are more helpful than vids. Thanks again everyone.

ChaseLeoncini wrote:@Wivanoff: Trust me, i didnt brush off your advice at all.

I know. I was just yanking your chain a bit. I should have added a smilie ;)

Chase, You really need to find someone who can help you out. This learning climbing off the internet thing you got going on isn't working for you obviously. John Long no longer "feels strongly" about gumbies using his equalette thingy.

Anchoring with the rope should be the first thing you learn about anchors, not the "backup" strategy. Methods are discussed across the interweb and in a plethora of books.

Find a mentor and stop asking all these stupid questions that you can easily find answers to by using your google.

I know you "think" you're being safe but in all reality you're only one small gumby mistake away from plummeting to your death.

Find a mentor. Please.

@reginald:
i have read many books here are a few of the more popular ones:
Off The Wall: Death In Yosemite
How to rock climb - JL
climbing anchors: 2nd edition -JL
the mountaineering handbook by connaly.
Self Rescue: 2nd edition

I do have a mentor. I told him im waiting till i know everything.

The internet is the third source ...
you know what why the fuck am i explaining? youve given me a hard time before, you dont know me or the strategies i use to develop safe rock climbing habitd so please dont go telling me im a step away from plumetting to my death. Im not asking anyone howto do something while im half way upthe nose of el cap am i? No. Im askig questions to learn and there is nothing wrong with taking a poll on the imternet to see what most people are doing and what is best recommended. I practice everything on the floor an experiment by failung pieces and weighting them after. I take the utmost care in learning before doing and triple check mysel on everything. so anyone else who has something to say about me being an unsafe climber go fuck yourself you dont know shit about me.

@Jake Jones:
I appreciate the more kind wisdom and will definetely be focusing hard on placing the right placements in the right spots with the correct directions of pull. Equality will be an addition to Solid, Redundant and No Extension. Thanks again. Ill take it slow.

Thats exactly what it is reginald. I asked a rope anchoring question because i wanted people to say hey hes a climber!
Ive searched through old forums and found a few things handy but things change, like the cordelette that was so trusty but you mustve never used that because thats am shit. You know it may not be climbing that gets you hurt one day but your mouth might get you there.
So how did Sir Reginald, God of rope technique, find his way up his first mountain? Id be more reluctant to follow some schmoe id meet in the 80's than to do what im doing now. Everyone learns different.
And btw youre the only punk bitch to pop off wit a fuckin atitude in this thread so i guess not everyone who replys is a smart ass like you. Youre just gettin old, your stubborn, probably single and aint climbin as good as you once were so you find yourself puttin in any little rude remark to make yourself noticed so you can feel like the rest of the world really gives a shit about you.
Im done with you now, im sure ill see you around someday anyway. 😘

Pick me. I know everything. Except what Reginald knows.

ChaseLeoncini wrote:You know it may not be climbing that gets you hurt one day but your mouth might get you there.

I think you mean, "It's almost ice season in Canada."

Sometimes I anchor with the rope...and sometimes build an anchor with webbing, does this make me a climber too or just an anchorman?

Look bro. Gtfo. You're attitude kind sir will get you royally screwed in the mountains.

Reginald, seriously? Do your really not have anything better to do? It says "other interests," what do you want him to put? Other things he is interested in? Like piano and writing?

I actually learned a bit from this forum. You started by whining that he was muddling up the forum, but then you continue to post childish insult after childish insult. What do you have to gain here? I feel like you are "muddling up the forum" more than anyone. All you add to any discussion is snide insults that help no one. If you think it was a dumb question, don't answer it.

Reginald McChufferton wrote: You did see the part where he encouraged me to post again and then called me bitch? This after attempting to threaten me in an earlier post because I hurt his little feelings? You did read the whole thread right? He's obviously not that interested in writing based on his display here. Sorry if my honesty has offended you.

No, once it disintegrated into bickering, I quit reading. Am I saying the guy is eloquent and has done nothing to invite an argument? No. I'm just asking that someone take the high road and quit turning every forum into an insult fest. Look at your last insult post. Are you proud of that? Does that belong on a climbing website forum? Lets try to keep things climbing related.

Reginald McChufferton wrote: Some day you'll look back and realize what a tool you were.

Coming from someone that does nothing but talk shit, durp.

@Paul:
I understand you're not on my side or his side and you probably think were both idiots but thank you anyway.

This all began with you Reginald. I asked a question you felt was "retarded" and insulted me with "your'e one gumby mistake from plummeting to your death."
...And (started sentence with "and", where's my editor?) it wouldn't have bothered me so much if this wasn't the second time you've jumped in on a thread of mine with insults. Everyone else was being kind even if it was a dumb question.
From now on, to avoid any arguments and muddling up the forum, please avoid all of my future threads.

PS: I absolutely loved your, "But mommmmm, did you see what he did!? Why do i always get in trouble!? He started it!"
"Now, Reginald, your'e much older than him. Your'e becoming a strong man now so want you to suck it up, and be the bigger man."
"Oh mom, I hate you! I wish i was never born!"
Regina Leaves thread crying and younger boy posts one last immature message to fuck with him.

My sincere apologies to all of you for the immature responses to Reginald's insults... including this (last) one.