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BETA PHOTO: I think this is the west face of Flying Buttress, ...
This is a great route up a huge corner then out an equally huge roof. If MP.com had an option to rate this 5.9+++ I would have rated it so. It gets shade in the am & a mix of sun & shade in the pm.
Most people only do the first 3 pitches then rap, which is what we did. As the guidebook says: "If you are going to the top make sure your affairs are in order." If anyone here has climbed all the way to the top please contribute the info.
P1: Start up easier ground through some loose rock to good rock in a nice corner. Ascend corner to a gear belay on a ledge. (5.9+)
P2: Continue up corner to a bolted belay just a bit before the roof. (5.9) It MIGHT be possible to link the first 2 pitches with a 70m rope, lots of slings, and a strong leader.
P3: Continue up a short bit to the huge roof. Traverse right for forever to an awkward but good rest in a big pod, then continue right some more to the lip. Pull around the lip (#4 Camalot) then up cracks for another 20-30' to a bolted anchor. (5.9+)
IMHO the best access is via the Cow Pies trail off of Schnebley Hill Rd. Follow the Cow Pies trail to the Flying Buttress. Continue on it as it contours west around the Flying Buttress, passing Arch Enemy and then Technicolor Corner. After Technicolor Corner, contour up and right over the obvious saddle, then continue around the West Face of the Flying Buttress (either up high or down low on a trail) to the obvious huge corner that leads to an obvious huge roof. This is Epitaph.
Bring all your #3 Camalots on this one. I would recommend the following: 1 set of nuts, 1 set of cams from small thru #.5 camalot, doubles of .75 thru #2 camalots, at least 4 (or 5 or 6?) #3 camalots, 2 #4 Camalots, 1 #5 camalot and lots of slings. Yes that is a bunch of gear, but maybe I'm just weak. 2 double rope rappels get you to the ground.
BETA PHOTO: Easy approach from Schnebly via Cowpies trail
Tyler starting up Epitaph
|By roman d|
From: Pasadena, CA
Mar 29, 2010
What is the state of the anchors at the top of pitch 3? The Bloom guide mentions that another bolt is needed, but that info is 8-10 years old.
Mar 29, 2010
The rap anchors are adequate but un-inspiring. Bring some webbing, or better yet replace any part of the rap anchor that is in need of replacement.
Mar 31, 2010
New anchors were installed last week by Jon Burcham and friends last week. Thx Jon
|By Chris Tatum|
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Apr 18, 2010
We only replaced the second rappel anchors.... or the anchors for the bottom rappel. The upper rap anchor had a decent bolt and and a 'no gud' bolt... but seemed to be in good shape. We cleaned all the shitty old webbing off the raps and replaced it with chain.
From: flagstaff, az
May 14, 2010
Fun route and one of the easiest I've done in Sedona! while there are a few moves which might be 10- most of the climbing is very moderate- probably only 5.7 or 8 with ample opportunities for rests. The rock quality is better than I expected. Gear: single set of small sizes, 1 #4.5, 2ea #1 & #2 & #4. I carried 4 #3's but had one left on the rack at the top anchor, used 1 #3.5 but would have used a second had I had it. The exposure and fun factor is off the chart!
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From: Flagstaff, AZ
Nov 8, 2010
a few things: 1) the Bloom Topo is completely wrong - it shows a picture of the wrong side of flying buttress. 2) when we did it this weekend I found a bail anchor with a cam. If you can identify the brand/size and location of the cam, and furnish a convincing story of why you needed to leave it, I'll consider being a good samaritan and return it. 3) Also, I don't know about "easiest in Sedona"... I thought the rock was slightly worse than many other Sedona routes I've done and the climbing seemed a notch harder than the other 5.9 trade routes (Mace, Dr. Rubos, Oak Creek Spire). Awesome route though. 4) We had 5 #3 Camelots and used them all.
Nov 9, 2011
Did this climb today. The roof makes this route worth doing. Super long traverse with good jams. I thought that was the crux of the climb. The rest of it is very moderate.
|By Sean C|
Jan 6, 2013
The last pitch of this climb felt much harder than 9+. Or even 10a for that matter. The rack for this climb seems heavy but you'll be glad you had six 3's and two, maybe even three(?) 4's. I wish I would have had that many. The 5 isn't really necessary in my opinion. We also replaced the webbing on the third belay, the other stuff was looking a bit worn. All in all sweet climb, get it!
|By Ryan Z|
Mar 2, 2013
This was an awesome climb! I brought singles from .3 - 2, 4 #3's, 1 #3.5, 2 #4's and a #5. I placed every piece on the last pitch. Singles of everything to 2 was fine but 1 more #2 would have been reassuring. The 3.5 was a perfect piece for the bit before the the roof.