Epitaph  5.10c

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Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60 feet Consensus:  5.10c [details] FA:  Paul Obanheim, Brian Harrington, Chris Bay, 1985 Submitted By:  caughtinside on Jul 13, 2009 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>> Peregrine Falcons nest seasonally at Lover's Leap. During the closure period, please avoid the areas displayed on the map posted below. A closure will be in place at the center of the wall starting April 1, 2012 to September 30, 2012. A detailed listing of closed routes and any changes in the information regarding the peregrine falcons will be posted on the Eldorado National Forest website www.fs.fed.us/r5/eldorado. If you require addition information contact Susan Yasuda, District Wildlife Biologist on the Placerville Ranger District at 530-647-5311. Here's a map: 2009 Closure Map Submitted By: Amy Ansari on Jun 15, 2009 This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

Epitaph... the true Tombstone Terror of Lover's Leap! This route starts up a crack right above the most prominent tombstone on Tombstone Ledge. Another 5.10c, this one is much different in character than the Terror. The Epitaph was the famous silver mine in Tombstone AZ, that funded the boom that extracted 25 million dollars in a few short years in the 1880s, when the Earp brothers were in town. The Epitaph was also the name of the local paper.

Start up the well protected crack to the base of the first roof and clip the fixed pin. Make the moves over the first roof, and follow the dikes and unlock the sequence over the next two roofs.

After the third lead bolt, you can traverse 30' left on 5.0 climbing and rap off a slung block, or else continue up and top out the route on grungy rock.

A well protected lead that is worth doing when on Tombstone Ledge.

Location 

Tombstone ledge. 30 feet left of Tombstone Terror, 20 feet left of RIP. Start up the crack that is right above the highest tombstone.

Protection 

Light rack to 2", 3 bolts, one fixed pin. All three 1/4" lead bolts pulled 7/09 and replaced with modern 3/8" stainless ASCA hardware.

Rappel off slung block 30' left on the ledge. Might want to take some cord to back it up, but it was ok as of 7/09.