Epiphany  5.11d R

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Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet Consensus:  5.11+ [details] FA:  Chuck Fitch, Alec Sharp, Richard Carey Season:  morning shade in summer Submitted By:  adam brink on Jul 1, 2008 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Me scraping out the onsight on Epiphany. Photo by ...

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Description 

While Epiphany Direct already describes the original Epiphany a bit, the routes is good enough that it deserves its own description.

Start 10 feet downhill and to the left of Arms Bazaar. You will see a bolt about 15 feet off the ground. Don't blow it getting to the bolt. You can place a small cam before the bolt if you wish. Once on the ledge above, clip the anchor with a long sling and set off into the slabby face and cracks above. There is one small nest of gear about 20 feet off the ledge (once again, don't blow it getting there!). 10 or 15 feet above that you will get another nest of really good nuts and cams and then punch it for the finishing thin crack on Arms Bazaar.

This is an excellent, long pitch with quite a bit of thoughtful climbing and a hard crux.

Location 

This is ten feet to the left of Arms Bazaar.

Protection 

2 bolts and some very spaced out small gear. Bolted anchor.