Epiphany Direct  5.12 R

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Type:  Trad, 1 pitch Consensus:  5.12 [details] FA:  Matt Samet, Steve Dieckhoff New Route:  Yes Submitted By:  Pinklebear on Sep 5, 2001 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Description 

This is a direct finish to the existing Alec Sharp route, Epiphany (11d s), which climbs the smooth, north-facing plaque of rock just right of the gully to the right of Cosmosis. Clip a bolt and climb past funky groove features to a ledge, clipping the double bolt belay. Continue up the face via a thin seam to a small foot ledge about 15 feet below the anchors for Epiphany and Arms Bazaar. The standard Epiphany continues up and right via another small seam to the belay ledge, the direct steps left onto the face and liebacks past a tips seam and pockets to the right-facing arch high on the wall. Load the arch up with bigger cams and head for the mystery lip. Belay off of natural gear at the top. A 35 meter pitch with challenging yet reliable gear placements on perfect granite.

Protection 

This route requires an extensive rack of small-medium sized TCUs and small wires and RPs, as well as a couple of larger cams.