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Storm Mountain Island
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Epic Wall 

YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 130'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 1,642
Submitted By: Nathan Fisher on Jun 20, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (14)
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Looking down from the top of Epic Wall. My wife i...

Description 

This climbs the large wall well to the right of Goodro's. It is east-facing. The route has many variations, so enjoy. The 1st pitch tends to have dirty, chossy, rock with plenty of bushes. The 2nd pitch makes it worth it, with exposure and clean cracks.Hike off for the descent.

Protection 

Bring a standard rack, and gear for anchors. We found 2 older pitons on the route, there may be more... who knows?


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By worfeus
Mar 3, 2006

I placed a piton in this route back in the early 90s.

It was a TALON as I recall, and it is on the second pitch, about 15 or 20 feet to the RIGHT of the ascending crack.

Its in a small crack that does not run the entire length of this pitch variation, but it allows you to do this right hand pitch and get a little more exposure on the second pitch without having to run it out.

It was bomber then. I remember doing it with a ball peen hammer ducktaped to a runner, hanging off my harness, and standing there with my last clip off in the crack, (non-bomber, lol).

I called it the right hand variation back then.
By worfeus
Mar 3, 2006

I also soled this route a lot back then, but not the right hand variation. I stayed close to the crack on the second pitch, although I ALWAYS pulled the little roof at the top of the first pitch, right before the ledge.

It was always a fun route, and beautiful at the top. Great walk off to a fun 30 foot boldering spot.

It also makes a great training route for trad climbers. It was the first trad route I ever did.
By Ryan Brough
From: Arvada, Colorado
Jun 29, 2007
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

Can be led in one pitch with a 70 meter rope. Just runner stuff long and the rope drag isn't so bad.
By Brian B Ballard
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 13, 2009

Fun Route, top pitch is quite nice if you stay out on the arete.
By adaml
Jul 1, 2009
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

Though I followed this climb, seemed like protecting both pitches was a bit tricky and good protection was a bit runout (may not be the best route for a new trad leader).

Lots of loose rock (mostly small but includes some basketball-sized bombs on ledges that look inviting until you grab and realize that they're not strongly attached). This wouldn't be that big of a deal if the area below wasn't packed and has tables with unsuspecting picnic-ers.

Currently a small hornets nest near the top of the first pitch that scared the crap out of me :)