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Eole Danza per Noi
5.10- YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British
Avg: 3.3 from 3
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| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 1200 ft (364 m), 10 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 1,165 total · 11/month |
| Shared By: | ARK on Sep 6, 2015 |
| Admins: | Dan Flynn, Mark P. |
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Description
It's been a while, so I don't remember enough to do a pitch by pitch description, but there is one in french here: camptocamp.org/routes/54637…
Main points:
p0 4 - Optional. One can easily scramble on the right to the end of this pitch.
p1-3 6a - Climb the tower on the right side. Solid granite with clear crack systems. Occasionally there are a few bolts. Rappel from the tower to the base of p4.
p4-5 6a - These pitches follow some more obvious cracks and finish up with a sweet dihedral (but nothing compared to the one in pitch 9).
p6 6a - Walk across the ridge to the main face (see photo).
p7-8 6a - I think you should be able to see the pitch 9 dihedral from somewhere on these pitches. Aim for it.
p9 6a - An awesomely long perfect hand crack. Less than vertical. There's a little bulge at the beginning, but after that it's much easier.
p10 5c - Enjoy the view!
Descent - Do not rappel the route. There is a separate rappel route that starts further to climbers right than the finish of Eole Danza.
Main points:
p0 4 - Optional. One can easily scramble on the right to the end of this pitch.
p1-3 6a - Climb the tower on the right side. Solid granite with clear crack systems. Occasionally there are a few bolts. Rappel from the tower to the base of p4.
p4-5 6a - These pitches follow some more obvious cracks and finish up with a sweet dihedral (but nothing compared to the one in pitch 9).
p6 6a - Walk across the ridge to the main face (see photo).
p7-8 6a - I think you should be able to see the pitch 9 dihedral from somewhere on these pitches. Aim for it.
p9 6a - An awesomely long perfect hand crack. Less than vertical. There's a little bulge at the beginning, but after that it's much easier.
p10 5c - Enjoy the view!
Descent - Do not rappel the route. There is a separate rappel route that starts further to climbers right than the finish of Eole Danza.
Location
On the southern face of the Aiguille de la Varappe. From Cab. du Trient cross the Plateau du Trient towards the Fenêtre de Saliena. After crossing the Fenêtre the base of the route is on the right side of a smaller tower in the left half of the face.
From the Biv. des Dorées the start is reached through the Fenêtre de Suzanne.
Both approaches involve glacier travel.
From the Biv. des Dorées the start is reached through the Fenêtre de Suzanne.
Both approaches involve glacier travel.
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