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Fall Wall
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5.11 Crack 
Clam Shell 
Cold Finger 
Colonial Rule 
Drop Zone 
E.O. Friction 
E.O. Lieback 
Easy Overhang Traverse 
Fall Wall (*the route) 
Fear and Loathing 
Guilty Fingers 
Gunga Din 
Hole 
Mickey Mantle 
Neon Madman 
Spider God 
Upper Fall Wall Route 

E.O. Lieback 

YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ British: MS 4a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ British: MS 4a [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 1,934
Submitted By: Scott Hansen on Jul 22, 2001
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This photo shows the entire Fall wall area. The o...

Description 

This route starts in the crack that lies in the center of the large boulder sitting at the base of the Fall Wall. This is a great training crack for mastering the lieback and you really don't need the two enormous chicken heads to the right of the crack anyway. An easy fun route. A two bolt anchor with chains is found at the top of the route.


Protection 

Medium cams and passive pro will protect this well.



Photos of E.O. Lieback Slideshow Add Photo
Marge topropes the E.O. Friction route.  E.O. Lieback follows the belay rope up the corner.  Pretty obvious and casual.  August, 2005.
Marge topropes the E.O. Friction route. E.O. Lieb...
Perfect rock, perfect gear...  too bad it's so short.
Perfect rock, perfect gear... too bad it's so sho...
Comments on E.O. Lieback Add Comment
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By John Shields
Aug 6, 2003

What is this one too lowly for comment!?

A great easy route that will take pro every inch of the way! A bit of a runout to the crack right off the deck, but not bad. The only route at Vedauwoo I've climbed that I thought was over rated for difficulty. 5.4 would be reasonable for this one.

By nolteboy
Apr 15, 2005

This great route takes bomber pro and is one of the best climbs of its grade at the 'Voo.

By Charles Danforth
From: L'ville, CO
Nov 4, 2005
rating: 5.4 4a 12 IV VD 3c

I agree; pretty easy for the grade and I'd give it a 5.4 at most. This would be a great beginner trad lead as the gear is obvious, good, and plentiful. I climbed it entirely with tricams, IIRC. Anchor building is not an issue; just clip the chains and you're done.

By Buff Johnson
Feb 3, 2006
rating: 5.4 4a 12 IV VD 3c

Fun dihedral route! If it were only 10 pitches long, I might give it another star.

By JayJurkowitsch
From: Laramie,WY
Mar 26, 2007

Most of the Fall Wall and Clamshell boulder routes - especially in the 5.5 to 5.7 range, were FA by Jim Halfpenny in the mid-60's, and also several unknown 10th Mountainn Division vets of WW II. The 5.11 crack was originally an aid route and piton scars are the finger-tip holds.

By Rodger Raubach
Jul 20, 2010
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ MS 4a

A very easy intro to liebacking at 5.5. Eats trad passive pro--large stoppers. Great climb for beginners at Vedauwoo.

By Taylor Spiegelberg
From: Sheridan, Wyoming
Jul 28, 2012

What is the route to the left of E.O. lieback on the same face as Gunga Din but on the right toward the arete? Pretty hard crimps with about 6 bolts. Must be new, because it's not online.

By Bob Scarpelli
Sep 28, 2012

The route to the left of E.O. lieback is named "Busy Being Fabulous". It is in the upper 5.10 range. FA Bob Scarpelli and Mitzi Kenast.

By Matty H
Jun 16, 2013

Climbed this today. The bolts at the top move a little. I couldn't crank it down with the Metolius torque nut tool, so real tools will be needed to tighten the bolts. Great route though. Bring stoppers.