This is a small crag, with only a few routes. All the routes are moderate trad climbs, and are short enough to toprope. Access is easy, with a short but loose hike to the base from the parking lot. Descent for all routes is a hike (3rd, maybe 4th class) off to the north (to the right as you are looking at the crag from the base).
From Boulder, take US 36 north until it intersects with Highway 66 near Lyons. Take a left (following US 36), and continue through Lyons. When you hit CO Highway 7, turn right (continuing along US 36 north). From here, go 3.7 miles, and turn left on County Road 80 at the Shelly's Cottages sign. Stay to the left, otherwise you will end up in Shelly's Cottages. Take this road half a mile or so, and there will be a parking area on the left, just beneath the crag. There are 2 faint trails, one heading up to Rock Biter and First Door, and one up to the obvious crack of Joy. A short hike and a bit of dirt scrambling will get you to the base.
This route is the best of the 3 routes on this crag. It follows the obvious wide crack on the right. Hike up and right, to the low point of the rock.Climb up and around a flake, then up the widening crack for 15 feet, then step over to the left where the crack zig-zags. Continue up the offwidth to the top.This is a fairly easy offwidth crack, and can be made easier by utilizing face holds. If you don't feel like leading it, hike around to the north, and go up the descent route. A good topro...[more]Browse More Classics in CO
The Entryway Slab is an easy crack climb with plenty of face holds for beginning trad climbers. Warning! There is a 4-5ft flake halfway up the route, that is just one hard pull from peeling off. Be sure your partner is not right below you. This flake will do serious damage. Debated pulling it off ourselves, but right near the road and would probably settle right in the middle of the road, blocking traffic. So be careful.