Entry Level 5.8
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch |
| Consensus: | 5.8+ [details] |
| FA: | TR: Kathy Shannon, '88. FA: bolted: Richard Wright, Anna Bran |
| Submitted By: | Ben Mottinger on Jan 1, 2001 |
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Dan Mottinger leading on a cold Christmas Eve.
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As of March 7, 2012: Shakespearean Theater – restricted March, April, May. Mind Meld – restricted March, April, May. Porky’s Wall – restricted March, April, May, June. Vulture Wall – restricted March, April, May. Morning Sun Wall – restricted March, April, May, June, July.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description This is a good beginner/warmup route. Start on the next section of wall S. of Beta Slave on a black water streak not as prominent as Pat Hedgeclipper. Move up on good holds all the way to the anchors.
Protection 5 QDs to a double bolt anchor.
BETA PHOTO: The route from directly below
| Dan trying to keep his hands warm.
| Myself on my second lead, and yeah, it was kinda w...
| At the crux, trusting those feet, my second lead.
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By Cobra13e Apr 2, 2002
| Did this route on 3/31/02. Last bolt and both anchors are spinning, seemed solid, maybe just need to be tightened up some. |
By Jason Velocity May 14, 2003
| I did this around 4/03, and it is more like a 5.10 when it's wet. |
By Darin Lang May 15, 2003 rating: 5.8+
| This climb would certainly be much harder when wet. Even bone dry, though, at least one move on this route feels a little tricky for 5.8. Maybe 5.8d. |
By Robert76 Jun 12, 2004 rating: 5.9-
| I tried to tighten the bolt at the anchor and it didn't turn easy so i let it be, the hole must not have been deep enough when the bolt was installed. I also agree that the crux move feels harder than the 5.8 grade would imply. Maybe i used the wrong hand holds or didn't look long enough? Has anyone taken any falls any of the bolts, can't say that i like cold shut bolt hangers
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By Andrew Gram Administrator From: Salt Lake City, UT Jun 16, 2004 rating: 5.8+
| I fell with my feet above a bolt in the crux and it was fine. Hard 5.8, but I am not good at cobble climbing so everything at Castlewood feels sandbagged to me. |
By Robert76 Jun 26, 2004 rating: 5.9-
| Still think the crux move is in the .9 area, but anyhow i installed chains at the top, enjoy. |
By percious From: Bear Creek, CO Feb 8, 2009 rating: 5.9-
| Chains have been moved to other routes (not by me), they were a bit unnecessary. Bolts at the top need to be replaced due to corrosion. I would say the crux move at the roof is closer to 5.9 than 5.8, so I give it a 5.9-. Also, getting to the first bolt may be a challenge for a 5.8 climber to onsight. |
By Tony B From: Around Boulder, CO Dec 13, 2009 rating: 5.9-
| Agreed that it is hard at the given 5.8 grade... but is still the obvious area warm-up. |
By Wayne Monnett From: Englewood, CO Jul 27, 2010
| 7.27.2010 be wary, the first bolt is missing. Didn't notice how high the first bolt was until I was almost 20ft up. There are only 4 bolts now, and you can see the hole where the bottom bolt used to be. We moved on because the fall would be onto rocks, not ground, so was looking at a broken ankle in the very least. |
By Alex Dean Mar 20, 2011
| The first bolt must have been replaced, because it was there when I climbed it today. |
By Mike Lane From: Centennial, CO Mar 20, 2011 rating: 5.9-
| This route had its gear updated with new hangers and better anchors during the Winter of 2009/10 (permitted anchor replacement for the whole wall). In addition, I was just there a couple weeks ago; and the first bolt is as it has always been. I think Wayne has to be talking about one of the routes at Morning Sun Wall, as they do get their hangers stolen. |
By mikeross From: Boston, MA Aug 11, 2012 rating: 5.8+
| Good warm up for the harder routes at C-section. I originally confused this route with another 5.8ish climb (also a good warmup) that is in the black streak next to The Sky is Falling. Does anybody know what this route is? Or the one to the right of it, but before Entry Level? They do not appear to be listed on mtn proj.... |
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