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Dan Mottinger leading on a cold Christmas Eve.
This is a good beginner/warmup route. Start on the next section of wall S. of Beta Slave on a black water streak not as prominent as Pat Hedgeclipper. Move up on good holds all the way to the anchors.
5 QDs to a double bolt anchor.
BETA PHOTO: The route from directly below
Dan trying to keep his hands warm.
Myself on my second lead, and yeah, it was kinda w...
At the crux, trusting those feet, my second lead.
Apr 2, 2002
Did this route on 3/31/02. Last bolt and both anchors are spinning, seemed solid, maybe just need to be tightened up some.
|By Jason Velocity|
May 14, 2003
I did this around 4/03, and it is more like a 5.10 when it's wet.
|By Darin Lang|
May 15, 2003
This climb would certainly be much harder when wet. Even bone dry, though, at least one move on this route feels a little tricky for 5.8. Maybe 5.8d.
Jun 12, 2004
I tried to tighten the bolt at the anchor and it didn't turn easy so i let it be, the hole must not have been deep enough when the bolt was installed. I also agree that the crux move feels harder than the 5.8 grade would imply. Maybe i used the wrong hand holds or didn't look long enough? Has anyone taken any falls any of the bolts, can't say that i like cold shut bolt hangers
|By Andrew Gram|
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jun 16, 2004
I fell with my feet above a bolt in the crux and it was fine. Hard 5.8, but I am not good at cobble climbing so everything at Castlewood feels sandbagged to me.
Jun 26, 2004
Still think the crux move is in the .9 area, but anyhow i installed chains at the top, enjoy.
From: Bear Creek, CO
Feb 8, 2009
Chains have been moved to other routes (not by me), they were a bit unnecessary. Bolts at the top need to be replaced due to corrosion.
I would say the crux move at the roof is closer to 5.9 than 5.8, so I give it a 5.9-. Also, getting to the first bolt may be a challenge for a 5.8 climber to onsight.
|By Tony B|
From: Around Boulder, CO
Dec 13, 2009
Agreed that it is hard at the given 5.8 grade... but is still the obvious area warm-up.
|By Wayne Monnett|
From: Englewood, CO
Jul 27, 2010
7.27.2010 be wary, the first bolt is missing. Didn't notice how high the first bolt was until I was almost 20ft up. There are only 4 bolts now, and you can see the hole where the bottom bolt used to be. We moved on because the fall would be onto rocks, not ground, so was looking at a broken ankle in the very least.
|By Alex Dean|
Mar 20, 2011
The first bolt must have been replaced, because it was there when I climbed it today.
|By Mike Lane|
From: Centennial, CO
Mar 20, 2011
This route had its gear updated with new hangers and better anchors during the Winter of 2009/10 (permitted anchor replacement for the whole wall). In addition, I was just there a couple weeks ago; and the first bolt is as it has always been. I think Wayne has to be talking about one of the routes at Morning Sun Wall, as they do get their hangers stolen.
From: Boston, MA
Aug 11, 2012
Good warm up for the harder routes at C-section. I originally confused this route with another 5.8ish climb (also a good warmup) that is in the black streak next to The Sky is Falling. Does anybody know what this route is? Or the one to the right of it, but before Entry Level? They do not appear to be listed on mtn proj....