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Lizard Rock
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Entry Fee T 
Leapin' Lizards T 

Entry Fee 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Harvey T Carter & Annie S Carter, 1962
Page Views: 2,254
Submitted By: Dan Russell on Nov 5, 2001

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thats a rap

Description 

Begin on the southwest side (the parking lot side) and follow a 5.7 crack/face up about 25 feet to a flake. Place a #4 cam here if needed. Move up and a little right to gain the right end of the large, obvious flake splitting the tower just beneath the summit overhang. Use a long runner to sling a horn here, then proceed straight up on overhanging jugs to a 2 bolt/1 drilled pin anchor. Mantle (yeah...).

The rock quality is good, and can be trusted for the most part.


Protection 

Bring a #4 cam and a long runner to protect the crux moves.



Photos of Entry Fee Slideshow Add Photo
ye haa
ye haa
it really looks like the upper 1/3 of the tower-level with my position on the flake-will probably slide right off sooner or later. seriously. if you look down inside the flake there's a bunch of mud down in there. that's what's holding the two parts of the tower together!
it really looks like the upper 1/3 of the tower-le...
BETA PHOTO
Marcus Garcia and Ryan Ray on Lizard Rock on Thanksgiving of 2001
BETA PHOTO: Marcus Garcia and Ryan Ray on Lizard Rock on Thank...
Zorka normally climbs barefooted at home.
Zorka normally climbs barefooted at home.
not photo shopped
not photo shopped
Dan Russell on the final summit overhang of Entry Fee.
Dan Russell on the final summit overhang of Entry ...
TT on Entry Fee
TT on Entry Fee
Route topo (picturing Dan Russell on top of Lizard Rock)
Route topo (picturing Dan Russell on top of Lizard...
Atop the lizard just before a rain shower!
Atop the lizard just before a rain shower!
profile view
profile view
Brian peers over the edge to view the (non-threatening) abyss below.
Brian peers over the edge to view the (non-threate...
on top 12 years after getting spooked and backing off on first trip to the desert
on top 12 years after getting spooked and backing ...
Robin moving onto big flake before traversing right to final mantle move.
Robin moving onto big flake before traversing righ...
oh yes he did
oh yes he did
Jon leading our sunset climb
Jon leading our sunset climb
Lori Graf on the summit. <br />Photo by Todd Gordon.
Lori Graf on the summit.
Photo by Todd Gordon.
Me following 68 year old Czech climbing legend Zorka Prachtel. <br />
Me following 68 year old Czech climbing legend Zor...
Brett following Entry Fee.
Brett following Entry Fee.
Comments on Entry Fee Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jul 12, 2014
By Ben Folsom
Nov 13, 2001

There is another variation to this route which is fun. Instead of going straight up from the big flake near the top, traverse the flake left until it runs out. Stand up and there is an old(not very trustworthy), hidden bolt. Then climb straight up from the bolt on steep jugs to the top. Still about 5.8.

By Anonymous Coward
Nov 19, 2001

And yet another variation. Stand atop the right side of the flake, bearhug/grope a slopey bulge to the right and traverse right into a bowl. Follow a ledge halfway around the spire to the right (NE side, away from the parking), pull up enough slack to mantle and gain the top (about 5.6/7 move to gain summit). Don't even think of falling off the backside mantle though as you will spiral all around the tower on your way back to that slung flake.

By Holly Barnard
Apr 2, 2002

My partner was able to place a long sling and a #2 camalot (backing each other up) near the top of the right facing flake where the lower crack/flake climbing ends just prior to the face moves. You can also put a #4 camalot behind the upper flake before making your summit moves (a 4.5 might work too). Feel around for good holds on top. The bolts/pin on top look a little manky - tied-off bolts don't inspire confidence.

By Jon Cannon
Jan 24, 2006

Too short, and the texture of the rock is like a cheese grater. The exposure over on the right side was fun, though. An OK route, but not terribly indicative of what I think of when I think of Fisher Towers climbing.

By M.Morley
Administrator
From: Sacramento, CA
Aug 11, 2006

Probably most people's first introduction to climbing in the Fishers. Nothing to write home about, but will provide the first-timer with a general sense of what to expect on the bigger routes. Plus, it's an easy "tower" to tick.

By Rich Kelly
Nov 28, 2006

Instead of going straight up at the top of the tower, we followed Cameron Burns description and traversed right after standing on the big flake. It is a bit runout but easy. Once on the ledge, getting to the summit proved to be the crux (5.8) as there are no positive holds on top. Luckily there is a nice slot for a .5 Camalot that protects this move. My photo shows what I described.

By toddgordon
From: Joshua Tree, California
May 2, 2007

I did this climb with Lori Graf in the early 1980's... I got scared. I believe this climb even today is still frightening people, isn't it? The bolts were sheit too.

By Tristan Higbee
From: Cambodia
Jan 3, 2009

Did the right side mantle variation at the top. Didn't have any gear to protect the mantle, so I was pretty gripped. A worthwhile climb but take more than just the #4 Camalot that is mentioned here. I took that and a #5 Friend. The #5 friend was good for the bottom crack. You could probably get a #1 (red) Camalot in above that, and above that there are some shallow horizontal slots where you could probably get in a C3 (maybe a red or yellow? or maybe the one smaller than those...) or TCU. I don't know if it'd hold but it would be nice psychological pro.

There are three bomber bolts with chains on top.

By JoergB
From: Germany
Oct 13, 2009
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Nice climb with resonable pro and rock quality. I don't understand the "R" rating.

By Chris Plesko
From: Westminster, CO
Apr 2, 2011
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R

This route is surely R rated. Even if all the gear holds you'd be mighty close to the ground (at best) if you fell in many spots. Going straight up is much better than the wrap around in the guide book because the mantle is a lot easier and on cleaner rock that way. A big cam like a #6 C4 might be the best pro on the final flake but you have a few options. The bolts seem fairly solid but they are small and old and I didn't dare fall on them.

By Aaron Ihinger
From: Ridgway,CO
Apr 25, 2011

I thought it went well straight up the middle. There is a second horn to sling that protects the last moves to the anchor. I thought that the second horn replaced the call for an "R" in the rating.

By paul bucher
From: moab, utah
Nov 17, 2012

i just love all the photo topos that are getting posted. not much more can be said about this one. if you have not done it; you should; it's fun

By joslstap
Jul 12, 2014
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13

Was able to sling a knob above the horn to protect the "runnout" section.