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BETA PHOTO: Overview of main, east-facing Slips wall.
This is the most difficult route on the east face of the slips (there are some .10's around the corner). Very nice midsection with nice smooth surface and a thin crack to get your fingers into. Then up to the juggy top section that feels steeper than it really is. Lots to grab up there.
Once you reach the top there is a ledge to stand on while fixing the anchors, so even if this climb comes at the end of the day (after you've done all four on this wall) you can still wear yourself out going up and not worry about being exhausted when you get there.
The guy in the pic is on Rolling The Bones, 2 climbs over.
6 quickdraws up to anchors.
BETA PHOTO: The rope is on the route.
Good route for a first outdoor sport lead.
|By Anonymous Coward|
Apr 16, 2004
This is the hardest climb on the face right of Italian Arete. Very crimpy hands. Take note of the footholds on the way up, because they are hard to see once you've climbed above. The route is much easier after the 4th bolt. I would stick clip the first bolt.
|By Andrew Gram|
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jun 2, 2004
Definitely didn't think this was 8+ - it is defintely an easier lead than Thieving Magpie because of the closely spaced bolts. Good route that is in the shade very early in the morning.
From: salt lake city, UT
Aug 14, 2006
there is a little metal tag on the belay anchors that says 5.9 on this climb...
|By Lee Gitlin|
Sep 3, 2006
It is easy to hang a toprope here by first climbing Italian Arete, then traversing a few feet to lookers right on the huge ledge. Crimpy face climbing on this route, with some sequencing required to gain the best stances for clipping. A good place to learn to trust that sticky rubber!
|By McRae Williams|
May 14, 2008
This is a very fun climb. Definitely use those feet and look for all the holds. I felt it was a bit hard for a 5.8, but I also felt that theiving magpie was a bit harder than a 5.7. Regardless, they are all very fun routes and an excellent place for your first lead or just chillin out on some easier stuff.
|By Benny B|
Aug 6, 2011
the right bolt on the anchor is a bit of a spinner on this one
From: Taylorsville, Utah
Aug 24, 2011
I would recommend something for rope protection at the top; the anchors are set up over a ledge so lots of rope drag over it
|By Annie Naylor|
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Aug 22, 2012
I agree with the 5.8 rating. The crux for me was between bolts 3 & 4. The feet are there, you just have to find and trust them. Easy climbing after the 4th bolt.