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Taken from supertopo. Feels like 5.10 and is good Steck Salathe training. Awkward moves around blocks occasionally interupt classic chimney climing. You may want to bring extra wide gear for the chimney runouts.
Arch Rock. 200 yards before the Arch rock entrance station
Nuts:One set;Cams:1ea 1.5-2",2ea 3-10" (Optional:additional 10")
Rappel most routes with two 50m or 60m ropes.
Start of pitch 2.
Looking down the flare/flake from the top of Pitch...
|Comments on Entrance Exam
From: Oakland, Ca
Feb 15, 2009
If you don't bring 10 inch gear the first pitch is very x rated for 60 plus feet until you get good gear below the sandy slopey block pull to the first belay.
|By Adam P.|
Oct 19, 2009
I would have to disagree with Mr. Mooring's comments regarding the need for a 10 inch piece of gear. From my experience (I've done the route twice), I brought the old school BD #5, #4.5 and #4 Camalot's which more than adequately protected the first pitch. This route is a phenomenal climb, and I would highly recommend it.
|By Rob Dillon|
From: '81 Sunrader
Apr 11, 2010
From: Mountain View, CA
Apr 11, 2010
Hey Rob, ha bummed we didnt get to chat yesterday after you did this. Knee pads big time.
|By DJ Reyes|
From: Northern Nevada
Aug 24, 2012
Did this in 06. Very memorable route. I pushed an old #5 Camalot almost the entire length of pitch 2 and it protected like a dream. I thought getting past the block of pitch 3 was the crux.
|By Mark P Thomas|
May 4, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a
The climb is very well protected. I brought cams through #6 and was able to push them most of the way on all pitches. There is only one part where you need larger gear to place (#4 Big Bro), but it is short and easy enough that if you are comfortable on this route, it is much easier to run through that section than to hang out placing a bro.
P3 crux flare was really fun to work out!