Entrance Exam 5.9
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| Type: | Trad, 3 pitches, 200 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.9 [details] |
| FA: | Chuck Pratt, Chris Fredricks,Larry Marshik,Jim Bridwell 8/65 |
| Season: | year around |
| Submitted By: | armando fimbrez on Feb 26, 2008 |
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Entrance Exam 5.9*** Don't under estamate the 5.9 ...
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2012 Closures MORE INFO >>>
Yearly raptor closures typically begin March 1 and remain in effect until August 1, or until further notice.
As of March 1, 2012: Lower Merced River Gorge. Closure includes all routes with the following exception: routes west of and including "Later" and northeast of and including "Juliette's Flake" remain open.
See the following website for more info:
www.nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/climbingclosures.htm
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Fifi Buttress To Close! MORE INFO >>>
The following areas are closed to all visitor use to protect peregrine falcon aeries from March 1 until August 1 of each year or until the young falcons of the current year have fledged: Fifi Buttress Immediately west of Leaning Tower. Closure includes all routes on Fifi Buttress.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description Taken from supertopo. Feels like 5.10 and is good Steck Salathe training. Awkward moves around blocks occasionally interupt classic chimney climing. You may want to bring extra wide gear for the chimney runouts.
Location Arch Rock. 200 yards before the Arch rock entrance station
Protection Nuts:One set;Cams:1ea 1.5-2",2ea 3-10" (Optional:additional 10")
Rappel most routes with two 50m or 60m ropes.
| Comments on Entrance Exam |
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By snowhazed
From: Oakland, Ca
Feb 15, 2009
| If you don't bring 10 inch gear the first pitch is very x rated for 60 plus feet until you get good gear below the sandy slopey block pull to the first belay. |
By Adam P.
Oct 19, 2009
| I would have to disagree with Mr. Mooring's comments regarding the need for a 10 inch piece of gear. From my experience (I've done the route twice), I brought the old school BD #5, #4.5 and #4 Camalot's which more than adequately protected the first pitch. This route is a phenomenal climb, and I would highly recommend it. |
By Rob Dillon
From: '81 Sunrader
Apr 11, 2010
| Knee pads! |
By squiddo
From: Mountain View, CA
Apr 11, 2010
| Hey Rob, ha bummed we didnt get to chat yesterday after you did this. Knee pads big time. |
By DJ Reyes
From: Northern Nevada
Aug 24, 2012
| Did this in 06. Very memorable route. I pushed an old #5 Camalot almost the entire length of pitch 2 and it protected like a dream. I thought getting past the block of pitch 3 was the crux. |
By Mark P Thomas
From: Oakland
May 4, 2013
rating: 5.9
| The climb is very well protected. I brought cams through #6 and was able to push them most of the way on all pitches. There is only one part where you need larger gear to place (#4 Big Bro), but it is short and easy enough that if you are comfortable on this route, it is much easier to run through that section than to hang out placing a bro.
P3 crux flare was really fun to work out! |
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