Entrance Crack  5.10

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Type:  Trad, 40 feet Consensus:  5.10 [details] FA:  unkown Season:  Morning sun. Submitted By:  Ken Trout on Feb 9, 2009 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Bob Horan on Entrance Crack, Hueco Tanks.

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Description 

This hand crack will give a great "crack workout", but watch your back. Because the crack is on the wall of a fissure, any length of fall will hurt when you hit the wall behind. Not safe for the cut-and-run style of leading, place lots of gear. Seconding is bad too. Consider only leading this. To clean, do a mix of down-aiding the crack and down-climbing the chimney.

Location 

Hike to the end of the chain trail and then to the Big Time area. This overhung crack is on the left wall of the entrance fissure that connects the Big Time to the Gymnasium.

When setting up the belay, leave room for people to get by. The entrance to the Gymnasium is very popular.

Protection 

This crack increased from #.75 down low to #4 Camalots up high. I use doubles from #1 to #4. Tape up your hands. Sharp crystals lurk in the upper wide section.