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The Dilithium Crystal
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YDS: 5.12a/b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Tom Herbert, 1990
Page Views: 2,839
Submitted By: C Miller on Oct 31, 2006
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (14)
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Photo by Micah Bryan Humphrey


One of the four classic "E" routes from Tom Herbert, this Gorge classic takes an amazing line out a substantial roof on the left side of the Dilithium Crystal formation.

A vertical face quickly gains the imposing roof (which is much easier than appearances suggest) which is rife with positive holds albeit a bit strenuous. The crux lies just above the lip as you struggle to get established on the slab above; once over it's a matter of holding it together to the anchors.

Given 12b in most guidebooks, this seemed an easy tick for the grade and more on par with the 12a's at the Gorge.


10 bolts, anchors

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By JamesLucas
Jan 20, 2012

Amazing route. As you pull over the roof, imagine John Bachar soloing, in hot pink lycra shorts that make hims ass look big.

By Neil Rankin
From: Greensboro, NC
Apr 1, 2013
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6b

This is 12b all day, any day, and a harder red-point than Mind Meld just down the wall to the climber's right.