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Flattop Mountain - S side
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Baby Dragon 
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Enter The Dragon (aka Old Route) 
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Enter The Dragon (aka Old Route) 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b M4 Steep Snow

   
Type:  Mixed, Snow, Alpine, 6 pitches, 800', Grade IV
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b M4 [details]
FA: As a summer rock route: William Buckingham and Bob Boucher, 1954. First winter ascent unknown.
Season: Late Winter
Page Views: 3,011
Submitted By: Chris Sheridan on Apr 6, 2009
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Chris Sheridan high on Enter The Dragon.

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Description 

Enter The Dragon roughly follows the line of a rarely done summer rock route known as Old Route (5.7). As a mixed climb, the route offers six quality pitches of moderate but strenuous climbing to a great summit.

The route has likely been climbed as a mixed route before, so maybe this is just a rediscovery of an old route for a new generation. With that in mind, it's not too much of a stretch to give the mixed route a new name, like the route Left Chimney, which was often overlooked until someone renamed it Dreamweaver.

Enter The Dragon climbs the center of the south face of the Dragon Tail. Start by climbing up the Dead Elk Couloir and traversing into the top of a large snow ledge.

P1: Climb an iced up, right-facing corner system for a forty feet. Run the rope up easier terrain and belay on the left (150 feet, M4).

P2: Climb blocky, mixed terrain on the left side of the gully system past a pair of crux bulges. Again, belay on the left about 30 feet down from a steep chimney (150 feet, M4).

P3: Kick steps up and right, and climb the steep chimney past a fragile snow mushroom (unless you're lucky) then up easier terrain to a belay on the right (150 feet, M4).

P4: Climb up the left side of the gully past a short squeeze chimney with great featured rock then through a small overhang. Once past the overhang, angle up and right towards a notch in the southeast ridge of the Dragon Tail (150 feet, M4-).

P5: Climb up to the notch the work your way up the south west ridge until its possible to break right on a ledge system leading to the base of the east face of the summit block (100 feet, 5.6).

P6: We didn't climb pitch 6 due to the usual assortment of excuses: cold hands, bad weather, approaching darkness, etc. From the view from our highpoint and by looking at pictures later on, there looked to be about one pitch of 5.7 terrain remaining through steep but featured terrain.


Location 

From the summit or the route, descend north then down the Dragon Tail Couloir. It looks like it is possible to descend east from the notch in the south east ridge but having fallen for this trap, I don't recommend it. A huge overhang is directly below, with the lip of the overhang about 180 feet above couloir. You may find yourself hanging in the middle of space wondering what to do next. If you have to bail, rappelling the line of ascent will greatly reduce your chances of having a really bad day.


Protection 

Cams to a #3, stoppers, one specter, one thin knife blade an maybe a few other pins.



Photos of Enter The Dragon (aka Old Route) Slideshow Add Photo
Looking down pitch 4, I think.
Looking down pitch 4, I think.
Andy Grauch starting up the first pitch of Enter The Dragon. <br /> <br />Photo by Chris Sheridan on 4-5-09.
Andy Grauch starting up the first pitch of Enter T...
Dragontail.
Dragontail.
A view up the first pitch of Enter the Dragon. <br /> <br />Photo by Chris Sheridan, taken on 4-5-09.
A view up the first pitch of Enter the Dragon.

Ph...
Chris Sheridan at the top of the pitch of Enter The Dragon. <br /> <br />Photo by Andy Grauch, taken 4-5-09.
Chris Sheridan at the top of the pitch of Enter Th...
JD on the approach.
JD on the approach.
Chris Sheridan on the third pitch of Enter The Dragon. <br /> <br />Photo by Andy Grauch, taken 4-5-09.
Chris Sheridan on the third pitch of Enter The Dra...
First pitch.
First pitch.
Comments on Enter The Dragon (aka Old Route) Add Comment
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By Chris Sheridan
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 6, 2009

We descended east, from the notch in the south east ridge in two long rappels, one about 200ft, the second about 230ft. The anchor we used for the second and last rappel was about 50ft above the lip of the large roof. When I got to the lip of roof it looked like the ropes were about ten feet above snow, so I went for it. It turned out that the ends of the rope were about about 30ft above the snow. Getting down to the snow required letting one side of the rope (the side without the knot at the anchor) slip out of the belay device and using the friction of the rope sliding through the anchor above somewhat slow our falls. When I went, my partner, Andy saw the rope sliding through the anchor and grabbed it. That slowed me down some and I hit the deep powder snow with a nice soft landing. When Andy came down, there was no one above to return the favor. When the rope slipped through his belay device, he came down fast and landed feet up hill, then toppled over backwards. With the rush of relief, we sat there and laughed for five minutes straight.

By J. Fox
From: Black Hawk, CO
Apr 8, 2009

Another nice addition! Thanks!

By Caelan
From: Dysfunctional, CO
May 22, 2009

Chris: 1st, this routes look fun - Thanks for posting!

2nd, in your description you mention the "Dead Elk Couloir". Is this the same as the "Dragon's Tooth Couloir"? There appears to be about 4 different names for the couloir that ascends between the Dragon's Tail Rock Buttress and the Dragon's Tooth Rock Buttress. Other names I've heard are "Dragon's Egg Couloir" and "Tower Gully". There must be some kind of magical curse in this area that has warped out minds... But my question is, do you know what the "oldest/original name" for this couloir is? Seems that you have access to some older information that seems less available. Cheers!

By Chris Sheridan
From: Boulder, CO
May 29, 2009

Hey Aaron,

I picked up the name Dead Elk Couloir from Eli's ClimbingLife.com website though Dragon's Tooth Couloir may be the older name.

The Dragon's Egg is a feature on the south face of Meeker. The Dragon's Egg Couloir leads up past it. I have no idea where Tower Gully is.

By J. Fox
From: Black Hawk, CO
Jun 2, 2009

I think Dragon's Tooth, a.k.a. Dead Elk couloir is called Tower Gully in the Bernard Gillett book for RMNP the High Peaks.

By Ben Collett
Apr 1, 2013

As of 3/31, we only found one rap station on route. We ended up establishing a nice easy descent from the top of the gully system: head over the shoulder on the left of the gully and scramble down the obvious ramp to a nut and hex anchor. A double rope rap takes you to a snowy gully which you can downclimb until it cliffs out. On the skier's right, there is a ledge with a slung horn anchor. One more double rope rap deposits you in the snow of the Dead Elk Couloir. Fun route.

By Chris Gibbs
From: Denver, CO
Apr 1, 2013

Nice, Ben, I was about to write that same thing.

Only additions would be the shoulder over to the rap is at the top of the 4th pitch. Also, I'd recommend leaving packs at the snow bowl on the approach where you break left to head up the Dead Elk Couloir. This saves you the pain of hiking back up to the base of the route even if you descend the Dragon Tail Couloir.

By erik rieger
From: Boulder, CO
Dec 7, 2013

I've done this route twice now. If you're good at scouting for melt-freeze conditions, you'll enjoy the crap out of this route. Also, there can be significant avy danger on the route.

By Gordon Laurens
Apr 8, 2014

Climbed this route in early March 2014 and put together a video of the day. Gives you a fair idea of what the climbing is like.
youtu.be/AOdGFCzs6ao