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Jabba Buttress
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(Enter) Sandman 
Better Eat Yo Wheaties  
Blue Light Special 
Bush & Dirt Crack aka Pseudo-Cenotaph aka I Need a Shower 
Dune  
Face To Nowhere 
I Need a Batholith 
In Mesopotamia 
Jabba the Hutt Levitates 
Odale'! 
Offwidth Crack 
Steve Likes Offwidth 
Three Open Books 

(Enter) Sandman 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a

   
Type: Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a [details]
FA: 
New Route: Yes
Season: all
Page Views: 3,786
Submitted By: Tim Kuss on Jun 14, 2009
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (25)
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Some good climbers have been stumped by this 5.8 m...

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Description 

This is a great route on very soft but highly featured sandstone - it is the sandstone version of tufa climbing. The cruxes are at the first bolt and another is at the fun mantle midway.


Location 

It is located 20 feet right of I Need a Shower.


Protection 

Bolts and a fixed stopper at the roof- eleven clips. Fixed biners at anchor.



Photos of (Enter) Sandman Slideshow Add Photo
The hardest moves are at the beginning.
The hardest moves are at the beginning.
Bridgette climbing.
Bridgette climbing.
Movin' up.
Movin' up.
The last few moves are on the arete.
The last few moves are on the arete.
Nice!
Nice!
You might need an offset Alien at the roof.
BETA PHOTO: You might need an offset Alien at the roof.
Moving into the corner systems.
Moving into the corner systems.
The route nearing the awkward mantle, I Need A Shower to the left.
The route nearing the awkward mantle, I Need A Sho...
Jug haul.
Jug haul.
Comments on (Enter) Sandman Add Comment
Show which comments
By Marty Brenner
From: Durango, CO
Jul 19, 2009
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b

Fun route but lots of still soft rock in the middle. Should clean up nicely with use. Fixed nut in crack is gone, but you could place a small piece or just skip it and not worry.

By T Ferrell
Sep 18, 2010

GOOD NAME.

By YDPL8S
From: Santa Monica, Ca.
Oct 26, 2011

9 pictures for 70 feet of climbing? That's more beta than you get for most boulder problems. If it wasn't for the fetching model in this beta/topo, I'd cry foul.

By Tim Kuss
From: Durango, CO
Oct 26, 2011

Word. She was fetching the quickdraws. OOps, I didn't realize they had people patrolling this site for fowls.

By chosspector
From: San Juans, CO
Nov 3, 2011
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

YDPL8S proves that you can't post ANYTHING on mountainproject without some dude from Cali (or Boulder) flaming you for no reason. Cool, bro!!!!

By YDPL8S
From: Santa Monica, Ca.
Nov 4, 2011

Hey Choss, in my mind it wasn't a flame, I thoroughly enjoyed the pics. Now if they were of me, I would call foul. BTW I am from Cali now, but I cut my climbing teeth in good ole Gunnison, Co.