|i. High E
This pumpy route climbs the face left of Ants' Line. Start to the left of the tree, make some 10d moves, and join Ants' Line at its crux. Going up directly to the anchor ups the ante to 11b.
Often top-roped -- one can access the two-bolt anchor via Ants' Line or Sleepwalk. Otherwise, standard rack with some small pieces.
|By Chris Duca|
From: Havertown, PA
Aug 23, 2008
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Despite the R rating, if you have a cool head, and don't mind well spaced, yet solid, gear and a 15-20 foot runout at the end, this route should be in the bag for ya.
A great line up a beautiful piece of rock. Start on the left side of the Ent tree grown into the foot of the wall. The route consists of a devious and sequential crux about 35 feet up followed by a nice rest out right, then hard moves to gain the large horizontal. The pump crux and runout appear above the horizontal where the difficulty options present themselves to you.
Jul 31, 2009
NB that no matter how pumped out of your mind you may find yourself on this route: if you're on TR, you do not have the right-of-way over a leader on Ants' Line.
This may sound 'duh', but ... happened to me, and it was like the guy didn't even see me!
|By Jon Clark|
From: Philadelphia, PA
Jul 18, 2011
The direct finish is the way to go as it keeps the climb as an independent line. If you pitch when pulling over the roof you will likely hit the tree and the ledge.
|By david berman|
Dec 3, 2012
i thought this route was more of a pg rating? seemed like it takes pretty good gear most the way.
|By David Stowe|
Dec 3, 2012
I think the R may come more from the tree and even the ledge then any lack of gear. There is a good portion of the climb if you come off there is a good chance of hitting the tree.
Apr 29, 2014
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
The crux of this route is soo much fun, definitely one of the best 5.10d routes in the gunks. I think the ledge/tree increased the enjoyment. I was scared making those moves with gear a ways below, but kept calm and a thank-you jug awaits. Bold for sure, I haven't tried the direct version.