Enigma Campground Route
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It can be done as two pitches or one. I found it fine to string the pitches together. The first half is an easy slab then it moves into the dihedral with the crux being near the start of the corner. After this a few more tricky moves gain some cruising layback moves to the anchors.
This climb is the prominent corner (left or right depends on where you look from) above the Willams Bottom campground. Try to avoid making more trails to the base. Although it's annoying bring a second rope for the rappel. Unless you're comfortable rapping off one bolt.
A set of nuts and some quickdraws for the bottom. Then cams .75-3 with a few extra #1's
Mike Keegan following our version of the 1st pitch...
Nearing the end of the bolts below the dihedral
Belaying belaying below the last bolt, Mike Keegan...
|Comments on Enigma Campground Route
|By Cody Drool|
From: Tahoe Vista, CA
May 21, 2011
My buddy and I climbed this as my first night climb with headlamps. We had no topo, but he had told me was about a 5.9 [a little lie to get me to lead it]. It turned out that it was out of my ability [go figure] and I took several lead falls at the crux. I lowered off. Jonathan made it to the anchors [1 pitch, 70m rope]. He belayed me up but I struggled at the same point and couldnt complete the climb. Jonathan double rapped. We placed no gear, as we only had quickdraws. Jonathan cruised through the 'cruising layback moves' at the top, though he said some 2s or 3s coulda been used to avoid a potentially big fall. I didnt finish it but it was awesome fun . . . Oh the things youll do when you polish off a bottle of Sailor Jerry
|By Kevin Gillest|
From: Arvada, CO
Oct 10, 2011
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b
Climbing this Oct 7th 2011 with Mike Keegan.
There are a few issues of concern:
-Second bolt of pitch 1 is missing the hanger, if you are crafty and carry narrow 24" runners it can be girth hitched, and relatively safe
-First chain anchor is a single, there is a second drilled hole, no stud or chain.
We linked all bolts to the first pitch, belayed at the base of the dihedral with no issues other than a short 2nd pitch. The entire route could be done in 1 long pitch, with a double rope rappel. We had left the drill in CO or we would have fixed, maybe next time.
Really no PG13 if you can rig the second bolt though.