Englishman's Route  M5-6

587 page views Good page?

Type:  Mixed, Alpine, 6 pitches, 900 feet, Grade IV Consensus:  M5-6 [details] FA:  John Wharton and David Isles, 1958 Season:  Winter Submitted By:  j wharton on Mar 6, 2012 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Danny Murphy near the top.

Add Photo  Add Comment    Printer View

Description 

This is my favorite winter route on Hallett; partly because my father did the first ascent (in summer) in 1958, and partly because the last pitch is steep and cool with tools and crampons. Like all Hallett routes, difficulty will depend on how much snow is sticking to the rock, or blocking your path. The final pitch is the crux. Check out the below link (scroll down) to see Wilford and Ferguson climbing the route in amazing conditions, as well as some other interesting photos of front range ice.

www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=321719&tn=40

I've never actually encountered any ice on the route, but I'm guessing late spring would most likely produce the conditions seen above.

Location 

This is the big, obvious arch on the east facing ascpect of Hallett's North Face. You can approach the upper half of the route from the bottom of Hallett Chimney, or via the big, right-facing dihedral on the right.

Protection 

Set and a half of cams, Stoppers.