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 ADVANCED
Hallett Peak - mixed/ice
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bullet T 
Cleft, The T 
East Ridge 
Englishman's Route 
Great Dihedral to Upper Buttress 
Hallett Chimney, AI5 M5 T 
Left of Cleft 
Slit, The T 
Tyndall Gully 
Unsorted Routes:

Englishman's Route 

M5-6

   
Type:  Mixed, Alpine, 6 pitches, 900', Grade IV
Consensus: M5-6 [details]
FA: John Wharton and David Isles, 1958
Season: Winter
Page Views: 1,167
Submitted By: j wharton on Mar 6, 2012

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Danny Murphy near the top.

Description 

This is my favorite winter route on Hallett; partly because my father did the first ascent (in summer) in 1958, and partly because the last pitch is steep and cool with tools and crampons. Like all Hallett routes, difficulty will depend on how much snow is sticking to the rock, or blocking your path. The final pitch is the crux. Check out the below link (scroll down) to see Wilford and Ferguson climbing the route in amazing conditions, as well as some other interesting photos of front range ice.

supertopo.com/climbing/thread....

I've never actually encountered any ice on the route, but I'm guessing late spring would most likely produce the conditions seen above.

Location 

This is the big, obvious arch on the east facing ascpect of Hallett's North Face. You can approach the upper half of the route from the bottom of Hallett Chimney, or via the big, right-facing dihedral on the right.

Protection 

Set and a half of cams, Stoppers.


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By erik wellborn
From: manitou springs
Mar 11, 2012

Couldn't find an Englishman; so I did it with a crazy Irishman instead! He didn't seem to mind. Pretty cool as a mixed line. Steep and sustained. The final slab seems a wee bit runout, but maybe I was off-route.