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Hallett Peak
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Anderson-Magill 
Better than Love T 
Center Route T 
Collins Donn T 
Culp-Bossier T 
Direct Second Buttress T 
Englishman's Route T 
Finch Route T 
Great Dihedral T 
Hesse-Ferguson T 
In Between (aka Right Dihedral) T 
Jackin' the Johnson T,S 
Jackson-Johnson T 
Kor-Van Tongeren T 
Love at First Sight T 
Love Route T 
Northcutt-Carter T 
Second Buttress Tour T 
Standard Route aka 1st Buttress Route T 
Storm Riders T 
Unsorted Routes:

Englishman's Route 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, 800', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: John Wharton, David Isles
Page Views: 3,674
Submitted By: Jim Berg on Jul 30, 2005

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"Big Bob" LaGrange atop the "integrale" of Love an...

Description 

Englishman's Route climbs the upper half of the 2nd buttress on Hallett. The most direct approach to Englishman's Route is to climb the bottom half of Better Than Love, but one could climb the Love Route, Culp-Bossier, or Hesse-Ferguson. From the ground, you can see a big, black, right-leaning crack above the white band that divides Hallett in half and to the right of the roof on the Love Route. The crack looks wet and it was wet when I did it. Fortunately, you stay to the right of this feature on beautiful face holds thus staying dry. This description only includes the pitches from the white band to the top.

Set your belay high up the white band or be willing to simul-climb or stop short of the belay I describe (there is another belay, slings on a chockstone in the big black crack with a sloping stance).

P1. Work your way to the crack then follow face holds and intermittent cracks on the face to the right of the big black crack. Positive holds lead to a nice but small belay (big nut and medium cam). Pro is good but like all routes in the area, it's a little run out.

P2. The next pitch follows more of the same holds but in the middle of the pitch you will have to traverse to the big black crack to find pro (#2 & #3 Camalots.) The pitch moves right with the crack until you come to an overlap. Crank over the overlap and establish a belay up and left. One could also go straight up or traverse right to other routes but we followed the photo from Scott Kimball's book.

P3. From here, it was one long pitch to the top with a 60m rope. We went left up a small, right-facing corner for 10 feet then traversed left on face holds under a small roof until arriving at a small left-facing corner. Sparse pro but more of those delightful face holds. The left-facing corner leads to the top but is broken up with a few ledges and a little more face climbing. Watch out for rope drag or break the pitch into two.

I felt that all of the pitches were a grade easier then what is given in the guidebooks. You just have to piece together the face holds correctly. The 5.8 pitch on Better Than Love was the crux of our day. Excellent rock, nice belays and killer exposure. It is a good choice if you have done the other classics on Hallett or if those routes are crowded.

Protection 

Standard alpine rack.


Photos of Englishman's Route Slideshow Add Photo
Beta. Englishman Route in green. Better than Love/Love Route in blue.
BETA PHOTO: Beta. Englishman Route in green. Better than Love/...
Bill Weiss topping out in the large dihedral on the bottom half of the route.  We stepped right onto the big terrace, then did an angling traverse up and left to gain access to the large arching corner which defines the route.
BETA PHOTO: Bill Weiss topping out in the large dihedral on th...
The end of our third pitch.  Three pitches below you can see a dude with a red helmet and blue shirt on the white band.  He is on the Culp-Bossier route.
The end of our third pitch. Three pitches below y...
Nearing the first belay, with Emerald Lake below.
Nearing the first belay, with Emerald Lake below.
Bill Weiss nearing the top of the first pitch of the arching corner system above the big terrace.  You can see much of this pitch face climbs to the right of the corner.
BETA PHOTO: Bill Weiss nearing the top of the first pitch of t...
Bill Weiss in the middle of the second arching corner pitch.
BETA PHOTO: Bill Weiss in the middle of the second arching cor...
Todd leading the second pitch.
Todd leading the second pitch.
Bill Weiss under the bulge at the top of the arching corner.
BETA PHOTO: Bill Weiss under the bulge at the top of the archi...
Craig Blankenship's photo with route lines drawn in: Love Route (yellow), Better than Love (red), Englishman's Route (blue, two finishes shown).  Note that I have not done the upper part of the Love route so this may not be exact (the two climbers in the photo are on the Love route, however).  The other lines I have done.
BETA PHOTO: Craig Blankenship's photo with route lines drawn i...
Englishman's Route (the way we went). <br />Photo by Blitzo.
Englishman's Route (the way we went).
Photo by Bli...
This photo is copied from Blitzo.  It shows how we varied up to and above the big terrace at mid-height.  We followed the same line for the last pitch as in Jim Berg's description, which is also highlighted in red.  Also, at the very top of the wall, it is easy to angle left and top out.  However, we traversed back right and up through a steep slab and through a final roof.  This was cool but exciting as there was rope drag and just a little pro.
BETA PHOTO: This photo is copied from Blitzo. It shows how we...

Comments on Englishman's Route Add Comment
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By George Bell
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 2, 2007

Todd Pett and I climbed this route yesterday. P3 as described was wet (near the traverse left under the roof), so I downclimbed back to the belay and we traversed right as in Blitzo's photo. This finish might also be followed by folks on the Culp-Bossier who (by mistake) go left of the roof on pitch 7 of that route.

So on our third pitch (above the white band) we went up and right 50 feet, then up a white corner which had an old angle piton in it. There was quite a bit of chalk in this area (while none below), which makes me suspect it is from folks coming from the Culp-Bossier. We then did a 4th pitch more or less straight up which was rather exciting (and no chalk!), probably the crux of the route for us.

Click for an excellent Photo of the upper section of this face (viewed full size).
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jul 25, 2010
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

A pretty good route if you climb the face out right of the corner system that is mossy and wet- nice bombproof rock and lots of good incuts and chicken-heads. Jo and I topped out a little before 10:45am having started up the trail at sunrise and on the climb at ~7am.
By Rodger Raubach
Apr 17, 2011
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13

Climbed this route in June 1961 with Bob LaGrange. It was my first alpine rock climb. We descended down the east face or chimney and had an "epic" with residual snow, running water, and slush. It was really too early in the season for the normal descent to be possible with lots of snow remaining in the chimneys. It is now graded 5.8, but BITD it was only considered a 5.6.
By Stefanie Van Wychen
From: Golden, CO
Jul 2, 2012

Great route! First pitch was a bit runout at 30 feet with no gear. From the top of the crack that goes up the face just to the right of the black, arching crack, I went straight up the black streak on the face - fairly good incuts - but it demanded attention because there were some delicate moves. I was looking for gear everywhere, maybe I missed something. Finally got a sideways nut in a divot on the face - not sure it would have held - before pulling into a small bulge and getting another nut. At the top of the second pitch, my partner went straight up from the overlap about 30 or 40 feet to the bottom of the bulge on the face and set a belay. Last pitch we traversed up and right to the large, left-facing dihedral (with the old pin) and went straight up this to the top - required all of a 70m rope. Albeit fairly well-protected, the endless chossy roofs on this pitch were pretty taxing - probably 5.9.
By Rodger Raubach
Apr 18, 2013
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13

After reading all these route descriptions, it's apparent that Bob LaGrange and I climbed something of an "integrale" of the Love route and the Englishman's Route. There was nothing that we considered 5.9, but there was some what we thought was maybe 5.7. BITD, we weren't that sure of the YDS Grading system, hence everything was under-graded and is now considered "sandbagged."