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I'm hesitant to add this route since I didn't exactly free climb the crux (though my partner did). However, it's an excellent line that should be part of the database. Another reason why I want to add it is because it forms part of a linkup that I want to rave about. P1 might be S if the gear in corners 3 and 4 is placed while free climbing.
This climb is a series of short right facing corners between Athletes Feat and Country Club Crack.
P1: Start with Athlete's P1. After doing the mantle, go straight up the slab to the base of the first corner. You can place an OK #2 RP (or maybe a yellow ball nut) at the base of your corner to protect a couple 5.9ish moves to a finger size slot where you get your first real pro. Note 1: if you blow this and you didn't place the RP or it doesn't hold, you're decking. Note 2: When my partner followed the pitch he had to battle some wasps for possession of the finger slot; the wasps were not an issue when I was leading, thank god. Continue up the corner with good gear until you feel it's time to move left to the next corner. Note 3: excellent #4 Rock placements at the bottom and top of the 2nd corner. Move left to 3rd and 4th corners as appropriate. Note 4: decent #4 RP at the top of the 3rd corner, but not sure how feasible it is to place while free climbing. The climbing gets much easier after corner 4 -- traverse left to the anchors at the end of Athletes Feat P2. This pitch is quite hard for a Boulder Canyon 11 and possibly height dependent.
P2: The rope will run much better if the belayer ties in with a long (~20') tether. Traverse back right the corner system. Steep jamming and laybacking (old fashioned 10+) with small to medium nuts and small SLCDs gets you 30' up the corner where the route joins Country Club about 10' below the roof. Continue up CC to its second belay. The three star rating includes doing P2.
Variation(Athletes Country Home? Englishman's Crack Feat? Shropshire Lad?): Combine P1 and P2 for THE BEST PITCH IN BOULDER CANYON (!?!) if not the Front Ranger (!?!?!): a 150' pitch with three or four different types of 5.11 climbing. Bring a lot of wires, small cams and quick draws.
Pitch 1: Gear from #2 RP to #2 Friend with key sizes in the Blue, Yellow and Orange TCU range and most importantly, at least 2 #4 Rocks or equivalent. The crux has just enough pro to be completely safe, if you can place it. Pitch 2: P1 gear plus some larger cams for the second half of Country Club P2 (e.g. gold and blue Camalot).
|Comments on Englishman's Home
|By steve dieckhoff|
Aug 31, 2002
I think this is a great route, one of the best in the Boulder area. In the 'changing corners' section you can have excellent protection above your head for all the hard moves. The 2nd pitch looks much harder than it turns out to be.
|By Steve Levin|
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 19, 2002
If you lead this in one pitch from the ground, make sure to use long slings at the start. One idea is to clip the fixed pin and bolt on the Athlete's Feat mantle, then downclimb and unclip from the pin. Once above the mantle reach down and change the QD on the bolt to a long runner. Also, consider using long slings on the gear at the start of the crux section (added excitement), and don't protect right under the CC Crack roof. I did all this and still had some rope drag on the CC Crack crux finger crack, but it was most likely just the weight of the rope.
However you do this route, it's gotta be one of the best 5.11 trad climbs anywhere. Hats off to Alec Sharp and Bill Feiges for putting this one up.
|By Alex Lowe(The II)|
Sep 17, 2004
Sic, Sic...Sic Climb!! One of the best in the Boulder area if you can climb the Grade. Forget the first part of Country club, just do this climb!
BE CAREFUL once you have pulled the mantle, you will certainly deck until you get something in the first dihedral, as mentioned above.
A double set of Aliens, blue to red, is the best pro for this climb, it's almost like cheating. (plus whatever you need for the crux of Country Club) You can do this in one pitch, one rope, if you have a 70m, which will reach the anchors for athletes feet, then another short rappel down.
|By Rob Kepley|
Apr 30, 2007
I'll agree with the comment above. Sic, sic, SIC climb! The best BC has to offer. I thought Arm's Bazaar was the best until yesterday.
Great pro the whole way with unrelenting moves. Just go for it! Definitely do it as one pitch, and take lots of slings. An 11d onsight and you'll need to have your gear dialed in at the crux for a successful send.
Apr 29, 2010
Wow. Castle Rock is so cool. I did this spectacular route yesterday.
I had to give the bottom mantle a couple efforts before seeing the sequence and sending it (I obviously needed some Royal Robbins boots to trust my feet) and linking into the next pitch for one general odyssey of a climb. Holy-moly rope drag!!---extend your gear with slings, not draws at the thin changing corners crux.
Also, let's replace the spinning, rusting SMC bolts that protect the mantle. I need a drill....
One gear beta response to the original post is that you can get really good gear above the slab, at the base of the thin corner. At the corner is a small, secure, offset nut. And down about 5 feet and right is bomber 1" piece or #0.5 Camalot.
Awesome. Will definitely climb this route again sometime.
Jul 26, 2010
Awesome route. No doubt one of the best trad lines in Boulder Canyon. One little tip for those who are interested: if you are going for the whole thing as one pitch, I highly recommend bringing triples (at least) of finger and big finger size cams (yellow and orange Metolius or equivalent) as well as extras in the #6 stopper/ #4 rock range.
|By adam brink|
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 21, 2012
Brillant pitch linked as one with CCC! A single set of cams with doubles in fingers and a couple nuts will sew the whole pitch up.