Climb overhanging crack and finish on Easily Flakey.
1st 5.11 in the NEW and a proud one at that.
Start in the flaring off-width with wide hand-jams in the back of the crack. Work your way up to the stance underneath the roof/overhang, place your piece of choice to pull the crux. Pull the crux by either continuing hand jamming the offwidth-ness of the crack, or throw a heel in there and mantle off of the crimps out right and stab for the pod to the left of the crack. Throw in a hand jam, pull one las hard move and traverse one move left to the mini-ledge out left and clip (or don't) the rusty bad 1/8" bolt. Finish up Easily Flakey with #3 + #4 cams.
route immediately right of easily flakey at obvious overhanging hand/fist crack
Good Pro, a little hard to place and not get super pumped
BETA PHOTO: Englishman's Crack (5.11b).
If you look very closely...I think I might have so...
|By Kris Gorny|
Jul 10, 2007
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c
Pulling off the overhang is hard. There is a trick to it that makes it possible for the not so muscular people.
|By Ladd Raine|
From: Plymouth, NH
Jul 14, 2007
I through a high heel in the off-width, pull hard, then turn it into a knee-scum when I finally get the good hand jam above.
|By Brad Parry|
Oct 25, 2007
Simple if you use the face to the left of the crack.
From: Vandalia, Appalachia
Mar 18, 2014
This route is historic (I think it was the NRG's first 5.11?), but it's really not THAT good compared to other routes of the grade within one minute of it, let alone within a half hour of it. Short crux, no pure jamming required, and ends on the most popular 5.6 in the gorge.