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Englishman's Crack 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 85'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Reed, Howard '83
Page Views: 1,733
Submitted By: Ladd Raine on Apr 11, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (20)
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Ladd pulling the crux


Climb overhanging crack and finish on Easily Flakey.
1st 5.11 in the NEW and a proud one at that.

Start in the flaring off-width with wide hand-jams in the back of the crack. Work your way up to the stance underneath the roof/overhang, place your piece of choice to pull the crux. Pull the crux by either continuing hand jamming the offwidth-ness of the crack, or throw a heel in there and mantle off of the crimps out right and stab for the pod to the left of the crack. Throw in a hand jam, pull one las hard move and traverse one move left to the mini-ledge out left and clip (or don't) the rusty bad 1/8" bolt. Finish up Easily Flakey with #3 + #4 cams.


route immediately right of easily flakey at obvious overhanging hand/fist crack


Good Pro, a little hard to place and not get super pumped

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Englishman's Crack (5.11b).
BETA PHOTO: Englishman's Crack (5.11b).
If you look very closely...I think I might have so...
If you look very closely...I think I might have so...

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By Kris Gorny
Jul 10, 2007
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Pulling off the overhang is hard. There is a trick to it that makes it possible for the not so muscular people.
By Ladd Raine
From: Plymouth, NH
Jul 14, 2007

I through a high heel in the off-width, pull hard, then turn it into a knee-scum when I finally get the good hand jam above.
By Brad Parry
Oct 25, 2007

Simple if you use the face to the left of the crack.
By camhead
From: Vandalia, Appalachia
Mar 18, 2014

This route is historic (I think it was the NRG's first 5.11?), but it's really not THAT good compared to other routes of the grade within one minute of it, let alone within a half hour of it. Short crux, no pure jamming required, and ends on the most popular 5.6 in the gorge.
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