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Climb overhanging crack and finish on Easily Flakey.
1st 5.11 in the NEW and a proud one at that.
Start in the flaring off-width with wide hand-jams in the back of the crack. Work your way up to the stance underneath the roof/overhang, place your piece of choice to pull the crux. Pull the crux by either continuing hand jamming the offwidth-ness of the crack, or throw a heel in there and mantle off of the crimps out right and stab for the pod to the left of the crack. Throw in a hand jam, pull one las hard move and traverse one move left to the mini-ledge out left and clip (or don't) the rusty bad 1/8" bolt. Finish up Easily Flakey with #3 + #4 cams.
route immediately right of easily flakey at obvious overhanging hand/fist crack
Good Pro, a little hard to place and not get super pumped
BETA PHOTO: Englishman's Crack (5.11b).
If you look very closely...I think I might have so...
|Comments on Englishman's Crack
|By Kris Gorny|
Jul 10, 2007
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c
Pulling off the overhang is hard. There is a trick to it that makes it possible for the not so muscular people.
|By Ladd Raine|
From: Plymouth, NH
Jul 14, 2007
I through a high heel in the off-width, pull hard, then turn it into a knee-scum when I finally get the good hand jam above.
|By Brad Parry|
Oct 25, 2007
Simple if you use the face to the left of the crack.